What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantPolysilicone-11
PEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientGlyceryl Distearate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Grape Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
HumectantAvena Sativa Kernel Protein
Skin ConditioningSerine
MaskingAlanine
MaskingProline
Skin ConditioningCeratonia Siliqua Gum
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientTetrasodium EDTA
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingLaureth-12
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Citrate
BufferingSodium Phosphate
BufferingParfum
MaskingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingWater, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Saccharide Isomerate, Polysilicone-11, PEG-100 Stearate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Glyceryl Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Panthenol, Palmitoyl Grape Seed Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Protein, Serine, Alanine, Proline, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Cetyl Alcohol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Hexylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Laureth-12, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Phosphate, Parfum, Sodium Hydroxide, Limonene, Linalool, Citral
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCetyl Alcohol
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialPalmitoyl Glycine
CleansingNeopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingLactose
HumectantLactis Proteinum
Skin ConditioningBrassica Oleracea Italica Extract
AstringentFarnesyl Acetate
PerfumingFarnesol
PerfumingPanthenyl Triacetate
Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture
Skin ConditioningMarrubium Vulgare Meristem Cell Culture
Skin ProtectingLecithin
EmollientOpuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningLaminaria Digitata Extract
Skin ProtectingPEG-35 Castor Oil
EmulsifyingCarbomer/Papain Crosspolymer
Tocopherol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHydrolyzed Algin
Neopentyl Glycol Diisostearate
EmulsifyingAlgin
MaskingGalactoarabinan
Schizophyllan
HumectantPEG-12 Glyceryl Laurate
EmulsifyingMagnesium Aluminum Silicate
AbsorbentDisodium EDTA
Maltodextrin
Absorbent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningAminomethyl Propanol
BufferingLactic Acid
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Palmitoyl Glycine, Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate, Dimethicone, Panthenol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Lactose, Lactis Proteinum, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Farnesyl Acetate, Farnesol, Panthenyl Triacetate, Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture, Marrubium Vulgare Meristem Cell Culture, Lecithin, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, PEG-35 Castor Oil, Carbomer/Papain Crosspolymer, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Algin, Neopentyl Glycol Diisostearate, Algin, Galactoarabinan, Schizophyllan, PEG-12 Glyceryl Laurate, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Disodium EDTA, Maltodextrin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Aminomethyl Propanol, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum