What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingNiacinamide
SmoothingPropanediol
Solvent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Olivate
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
MaskingIsohexadecane
EmollientCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantAroma
Polysorbate 80
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Skin ConditioningYeast Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningCaffeine
Skin ConditioningEctoin
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Skin ConditioningBakuchiol
AntimicrobialCollagen
MoisturisingAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantRetinol
Skin ConditioningDipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Husk Oil
Skin ConditioningWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Carbomer, Arginine, Isohexadecane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Sorbitan Olivate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Panthenol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Aroma, Polysorbate 80, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sorbitan Oleate, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Yeast Ferment Extract, Caffeine, Ectoin, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Bakuchiol, Collagen, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Retinol, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Olea Europaea Husk Oil
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate
HumectantCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientVegetable Oil
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingCaffeine
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientBifida Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantPalmitic Acid
EmollientSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingStearic Acid
CleansingButylene Glycol
HumectantPolyacrylate-13
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
MaskingPolyisobutene
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Myristic Acid
CleansingParfum
MaskingGalactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Ceramide AP, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Vegetable Oil, Glycerin, Polysorbate 60, Caffeine, Dimethicone, Bifida Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, PEG-100 Stearate, Palmitic Acid, Sorbitan Stearate, Stearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Polyacrylate-13, Caprylyl Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Carbomer, Arginine, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Myristic Acid, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Learn more about CaffeineCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCarbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is antioxidant with skin conditioning and soothing properties. It also boosts the efficiency of preservatives.
Though naturally occuring in Norwegian spruce needles, this ingredient is usually synthetically created.
This ingredient is not irritating or sensitizing. Recent research also suggests it may have skin-brightening effects through tyrosinase inhibition.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.
The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.
This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.
Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.
Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.
Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPolysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Learn more about Polysorbate 60