Biologique Recherche Crème VG Derm Nourishing and Moisturizing Face Cream Versus Biologique Recherche Crème Biofixine Anti-Ageing Face Cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientSucrose Polystearate
EmollientJojoba Esters
EmollientGossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingHippophae Rhamnoides Oil
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningBetula Alba Bark Extract
MaskingEquisetum Arvense Extract
AstringentHedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract
AntimicrobialFucus Vesiculosus Extract
EmollientCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialYeast Extract
Skin ConditioningRhizobian Gum
Lactic Acid
BufferingSodium Lactate
BufferingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningSerine
MaskingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAcacia Decurrens Flower Wax
EmollientSorbitol
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Tea-Lactate
HumectantPolyglyceryl-3 PCA
EmollientUrea
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialWater, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Sucrose Polystearate, Jojoba Esters, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Niacinamide, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Yeast Extract, Rhizobian Gum, Lactic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Allantoin, Serine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Sorbitol, Tocopherol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Tea-Lactate, Polyglyceryl-3 PCA, Urea, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Chlorphenesin
Water
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingPropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantPalmitic Acid
EmollientVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientPolysorbate 40
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantTea-Stearate
CleansingPEG-2 Stearate
EmulsifyingPerfluorodecalin
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantPolyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether
Skin ConditioningJuglans Regia Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningLeontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningNasturtium Officinale Extract
PerfumingPimpinella Anisum Fruit Extract
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantSodium Benzoate
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientP-Anisic Acid
MaskingPoloxamer 188
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantWater, Stearic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Palmitic Acid, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Polysorbate 40, Pentylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Tea-Stearate, PEG-2 Stearate, Perfluorodecalin, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Polyperfluoromethylisopropyl Ether, Juglans Regia Seed Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract, Nasturtium Officinale Extract, Pimpinella Anisum Fruit Extract, Tocopherol, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, P-Anisic Acid, Poloxamer 188, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Metabisulfite
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water