What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningIsoamyl Laurate
EmollientPropanediol Dicaprylate
EmollientHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantIsosorbide Dicaprylate
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingMel
EmollientPropolis Extract
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientSideritis Perfoliata Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
AntioxidantSideritis Scardica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
AntioxidantSideritis Raeseri Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
AntioxidantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCera Alba
EmollientCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
ChelatingHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientPolyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin ConditioningPEG-20 Stearate
EmulsifyingSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Hydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantParfum
MaskingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Panthenol, Isoamyl Laurate, Propanediol Dicaprylate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Glycerin, Isosorbide Dicaprylate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Polysorbate 60, Mel, Propolis Extract, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sideritis Perfoliata Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Sideritis Scardica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Sideritis Raeseri Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cera Alba, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Biotin, Xanthan Gum, Phytosterols, Phospholipids, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, PEG-20 Stearate, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Parfum, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingAroma
Squalane
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningOrbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
EmollientUrea
BufferingPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientDonkey Milk
Skin ConditioningHoney Extract
HumectantPropolis Extract
Skin ConditioningBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingMalus Sylvestris Flower Extract
AntioxidantSodium Cetearyl Sulfate
CleansingTocopherol
AntioxidantAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingLactic Acid
BufferingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingWater, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Aroma, Squalane, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Urea, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Donkey Milk, Honey Extract, Propolis Extract, Beeswax, Allantoin, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Malus Sylvestris Flower Extract, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid, Lactic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
This ingredient shows up on a lot of "pore-clogging" lists but there's no real evidence behind that. It doesn't even have a comedogenic rating from an actual study; the numbers you'll find online come from blogs citing other blogs.
Ratings for other ingredients mostly come from a 1980s rabbit ear test. This test doesn't translate well to human skin or to real products because the ingredient sits at a much lower percentage.
Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin. Just know this one's based on experience and not evidence.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinThis ingredient is also known as Avocado oil. It's the cold-pressed oil from the flesh of the avocado fruit packed with fatty acids (mostly oleic acid).
The rich fatty acid profile allows it to function as a skin conditioning agent and emollient; it helps soften and smooth skin while reducing water loss.
Preclinical research has found that topical avocado oil increased collagen synthesis and reduced inflammation during wound healing, giving it some skin-repairing credibility.
The unsaponifiable fraction of the oil is also interesting: studies on avocado unsaponifiables showed that it helped skin produce more collagen and other structural compounds that support healing.
The CIR Expert Panel has found this ingredient to be non-irritating in formulations.
It's a great ingredient for dry or compromised skin. Just know it may not be fungal acne safe. This is because the oleic acid content falls within the range that Malassezia can use as a food source.
Learn more about Persea Gratissima OilPropolis Extract is a natural ingredient derived from propolis (also known as bee glue). Bees make propolis by mixing their saliva and beeswax with resins collected from tree buds and plants.
This ingredient is packed with bioactive compounds like flavonoids, phenolic acids, and amino acids that give it antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Research shows it can help:
It also pairs nicely with hydrating ingredients like niacinamide and ceramides.
Just so you know, Propolis Extract is recognized as a contact allergen. In patch tests done in the EU, roughly 1-6% of patients react to it. Be sure to steer clear of this ingredient if you have a known allergy to bee products.
Since it is an animal-derived product, this ingredient is not considered vegan. For vegan alternatives, check out Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate or Centella Asiatica Extract.
Learn more about Propolis ExtractThis ingredient is also known as Cocoa butter; it's the fat pressed out of roasted cocoa beans.
Cocoa butter is solid at room temperature and melts right around body temperature, which is why it feels waxy in the jar and slippery on skin.
It has a very saturated profile (stearic acid ~34 to 36%, oleic acid ~30 to 40%, and palmitic acid ~24 to 29%) that makes it a strong occlusive: it sits on top and slows water escaping from skin.
Concentration data shows that it can show up anywhere from a few percent in lotions up to 100% in balms, and the FDA lists cocoa butter as an OTC skin protectant active at 50-100%.
The CIR has reviewed it and concluded it to be safe as used in cosmetics.
This is one of the ingredients with a comedogenic score of 4/5 from the rabbit ear test. Just know that a later human study did find that finished products containing high-comedogenic ingredients like cocoa butter did not increase microcomedone formation.
The fair call here is that this ingredient is most likely fine on body or low-percentage formulas, but can potentially be riskier as a heavy leave-on facial product if you break out easily.
Cocoa butter may not be fungal acne safe; it is a triglyceride of C16-18 fatty acids that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Allergies to cocoa butter are rare and uncommon, but a few cases have been documented (mostly in cases where the person ate chocolate). So if you have a tree nut allergy, be sure to patch test or avoid.
Learn more about Theobroma Cacao Seed ButterTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water