What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
Emollient
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientGlycerin
Humectant
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Polymethyl Acrylate
Methyl Methacrylate
PEG-40 Stearate
Emulsifying
Cera Alba
Emollient
Beeswax
Emulsion Stabilising
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingStearic Acid
Cleansing
Stearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Sorbitan Tristearate
EmulsifyingTriethanolamine
BufferingCaffeine
Skin Conditioning
Methylparaben
Preservative
Silica
Abrasive
Sodium Benzoate
Masking
Sodium Dextran Sulfate
Gel Forming
Myristyl Alcohol
Emollient
Escin
TonicPalmitic Acid
Emollient
Rhamnose
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Adenosine
Skin Conditioning
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Poloxamer 338
EmulsifyingAscorbyl Glucoside
Antioxidant
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Water, Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Glycerin, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Polymethyl Acrylate, Methyl Methacrylate, PEG-40 Stearate, Cera Alba, Beeswax, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Tristearate, Triethanolamine, Caffeine, Methylparaben, Silica, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Myristyl Alcohol, Escin, Palmitic Acid, Rhamnose, Phenoxyethanol, Adenosine, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Poloxamer 338, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Pentylene Glycol
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Dimethicone
Emollient
Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Skin ConditioningIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientNiacinamide
Smoothing
Alcohol Denat.
Antimicrobial
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
PEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Antioxidant
Boron Nitride
Absorbent
Propylene Glycol
Humectant
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin Conditioning
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingStearic Acid
Cleansing
Triethanolamine
BufferingPalmitic Acid
Emollient
Caffeine
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Citrate
BufferingHydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
Exfoliating
Dextrin
AbsorbentCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Lactate
Buffering
Myristic Acid
Cleansing
Citric Acid
Buffering
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Sorbitol
Humectant
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningOxothiazolidinecarboxylic Acid
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Skin ConditioningEperua Falcata Bark Extract
Skin ProtectingAcetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning
Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Niacinamide, Alcohol Denat., Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Boron Nitride, Propylene Glycol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Stearic Acid, Triethanolamine, Palmitic Acid, Caffeine, Sodium Citrate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Dextrin, Carbomer, Sodium Lactate, Myristic Acid, Citric Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitol, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Oxothiazolidinecarboxylic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Eperua Falcata Bark Extract, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G) is one of the most stable vitamin C derivatives out there.
It's made by attaching a glucose molecule to ascorbic acid; this glucose "cap" shields the vitamin C from air, light, heat, and metal ions that normally cause pure ascorbic acid to oxidize.
Once on your skin, the enzyme alpha-glucosidase snips off the glucose and gradually releases active ascorbic acid right where it's needed. Basically, it behaves like a slow-release pro-vitamin C with less of a stinging that high-strength ascorbic acid can cause.
The research supports the classic vitamin C benefits as well. In lab and human studies, AA-2G slowed down the skin's production of melanin (the pigment behind dark spots) and helped shield skin cells against sun damage better than ascorbyl phosphate.
These studies also showed AA-2G released vitamin C over a longer period.
A frequently cited manufacturer trial found that a 2% AA-2G face cream significantly improved wrinkle depth and skin roughness after 45 days.
And in 2009, a clinical trial showed it meaningfully lightened dark patches on the gums compared to a placebo.
There's also collagen-synthesis support (since vitamin C is a required cofactor for that) and an antioxidant effect too.
Typical usage is usually between 0.5-5% and most studies/products land around 2%.
AA-2G performs best when formulated at a mildly acidic pH (~5-7) which is much gentler than the pH that pure vitamin C demands (~2.5-3.5).
Just one thing worth knowing: the in-skin conversation rate is only about 55-60% by weight. So a 5% AA-2G product delivers roughly 2.75-3% of actual active vitamin C. On top of that, skin absorption is relatively low because the ingredient is water-soluble.
Learn more about Ascorbyl GlucosideCaffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Learn more about CaffeineCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHydrolyzed Rice Protein is protein extracted from rice. This ingredient is rich in antioxidants and peptides.
Studies show this ingredient may help with blocking the melanin creation process when skin is exposed to UV.
Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Learn more about Palmitic AcidPentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.
The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.
This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.
Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.
Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.
Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateTriethanolamine (TEA) is an emulsifier and pH adjuster. It is created using ethylene oxide and ammonia. This gives Triethanolamine a nitrogen core and a similar scent to ammonia.
As an emulsifier, it prevents ingredients from separating and enhances texture by adding volume to a product.
PH adjusters are common in cosmetic products. The pH of a product can affect the effectiveness of other ingredients. A product with a high pH may also irritate the skin.
If you are looking for the tea leaf ingredient, click here.
Learn more about TriethanolamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
