What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSilica
AbrasiveRetinol
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantBakuchiol
AntimicrobialCrithmum Maritimum Extract
Skin ConditioningChamomilla Recutita Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPaeonia Lactiflora Root Extract
Skin ConditioningOpuntia Streptacantha Stem Extract
HumectantLactobacillus/Papaya Fruit Ferment Extract
AbrasiveButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningRosa Canina Seed Oil
EmollientHippophae Rhamnoides Seed Oil
Skin ProtectingHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantLecithin
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingXylitol
HumectantAnhydroxylitol
HumectantXylitylglucoside
HumectantTrehalose
HumectantSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingIsohexadecane
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSorbic Acid
PreservativePotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialCitric Acid
BufferingWater, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Silica, Retinol, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Bakuchiol, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Opuntia Streptacantha Stem Extract, Lactobacillus/Papaya Fruit Ferment Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Rosa Canina Seed Oil, Hippophae Rhamnoides Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Lecithin, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Xylitol, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitylglucoside, Trehalose, Sorbitan Oleate, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 80, Hexylene Glycol, Isohexadecane, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sorbic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Citric Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantGlycereth-26
HumectantPropanediol
SolventMethyl Gluceth-10
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningTriethylhexanoin
MaskingXylitol
HumectantBeta Vulgaris Root Extract
Skin ConditioningChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Seed Extract
AntioxidantHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientRetinol
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Choleth-24
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSaccharum Officinarum Extract
MoisturisingXylitylglucoside
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingAnhydroxylitol
HumectantTromethamine
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlucose
HumectantCyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentCeramide AP
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningMethylpropanediol
SolventLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Glycereth-26, Propanediol, Methyl Gluceth-10, Pentylene Glycol, Triethylhexanoin, Xylitol, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Retinol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Choleth-24, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Xylitylglucoside, Carbomer, Anhydroxylitol, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucose, Cyanocobalamin, Dextrin, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methylpropanediol, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is created from dehydrating xylitol in acidic conditions. Xylitol is a famous sugar and humectant.
Much like its predecessor, anhydroxylitol is a humectant. Humectants attract and hold water to moisturize the skin.
This ingredient is most commonly found in a popular trio called Aquaxyl. Aquaxyl is made up of anhydroxylitol (24 - 34%), xylitylglucoside (35 - 50%), and xylitol (5 - 15%).
According to a manufacturer, Aquaxyl is known for a 3-D hydration concept and an anti-dehydration shield to reinforce the outer layer of skin.
This ingredient is often derived from plants such as wood and sugarcane.
Learn more about AnhydroxylitolEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinRetinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).
It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.
That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.
Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.
Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.
Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.
Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.
The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.
Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.
In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:
That last two are worth a closer look.
A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.
Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.
So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).
It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.
The research backs this up as well.
A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.
Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).
Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.
One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.
It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.
Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.
This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.
Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.
The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.
Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.
Learn more about RetinolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXylitol is a humectant and prebiotic. It can help with dry skin.
In studies, xylitol has been shown to improve dry skin. It decreased transepidermal water loss, or when water passes through the skin and evaporates. Xylitol also showed to help improve the biomechanical properties of the skin barrier.
The prebiotic property of xylitol may also help reinforce our skin's natural microbiome. Having a healthy microbiome prevents infection by bad bacteria and helps with hydration.
As a humectant, Xylitol helps draw moisture from both the air and from deeper skin layers. This helps keep skin hydrated.
Xylitol is a sugar alcohol and commonly used as a sugar substitute. It is naturally occurring in plants such as strawberries and pumpkin.
Learn more about XylitolXylitylglucoside is created from xylitol and glucose, two humectants.
Not surprisingly, this ingredient is also a humectant. It attracts and holds water in your skin, helping to maintain hydration.
This ingredient is most commonly found in a popular trio called Aquaxyl. Aquaxyl is made up of anhydroxylitol(24 - 34%), xylitylglucoside (35 - 50%), and xylitol (5 - 15%).
According to a manufacturer, Aquaxyl is known for a 3-D hydration concept and an anti-dehydration shield to reinforce the outer layer of skin.
Learn more about Xylitylglucoside