What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningParaffinum Liquidum
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Isopropyl Isostearate
Emollient
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
Perfuming
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
PEG-100 Stearate
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Cera Alba
Emollient
Palmitic Acid
Emollient
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Caprylate
EmollientSodium Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Dimethylacrylamide Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingChlorphenesin
Antimicrobial
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTocopherol
Antioxidant
Isohexadecane
EmollientSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Water, Paraffinum Liquidum, Glycerin, Isopropyl Isostearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Polysorbate 60, Cera Alba, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Allantoin, Glyceryl Caprylate, Sodium Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Dimethylacrylamide Crosspolymer, Chlorphenesin, Carbomer, Tocopherol, Isohexadecane, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Isostearate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Water
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingPentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Emollient
Diisostearyl Malate
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Hydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Stearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingStearic Acid
Cleansing
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPalmitic Acid
Emollient
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Disodium EDTA
Tromethamine
BufferingHydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Masking
Myristyl Alcohol
Emollient
Arachidic Acid
Cleansing
Lauryl Alcohol
Emollient
Myristic Acid
Cleansing
Oleic Acid
Emollient
Glycolipids
Skin ConditioningCandida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment
AntimicrobialMyristoyl/Palmitoyl Oxostearamide/Arachamide Mea
Skin ConditioningCocos Nucifera Oil
Masking
Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil
Emollient
Caprylamide Mea
Antioxidant
Water, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Diisostearyl Malate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Panthenol, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Stearic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Palmitic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Tromethamine, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Myristyl Alcohol, Arachidic Acid, Lauryl Alcohol, Myristic Acid, Oleic Acid, Glycolipids, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Myristoyl/Palmitoyl Oxostearamide/Arachamide Mea, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Caprylamide Mea
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilPalmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources. In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Learn more about Palmitic AcidStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
