What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Glycereth-26
Humectant
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Phenyl Trimethicone
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientGlycine Soja Oil
Emollient
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Caprylyl Methicone
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Glucoside
Humectant
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
EmollientErythritol
Humectant
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Hydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Synthetic Beeswax
Emulsion Stabilising
Cetearyl Glucoside
Emulsifying
Arginine
Masking
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingDimethiconol
Emollient
Polyacrylate-13
Coptis Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin Conditioning
Polyisobutene
Adenosine
Skin Conditioning
Disodium EDTA
Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum
Emulsion StabilisingTocopherol
Antioxidant
Agar
MaskingUbiquinone
Antioxidant
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Nicotinamide Mononucleotide
Antioxidant
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Glucose
Humectant
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAstaxanthin
Skin Conditioning
Retinyl Palmitate
Skin Conditioning
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
Antioxidant
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Glycereth-26, Niacinamide, Phenyl Trimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glycine Soja Oil, Polysorbate 60, Caprylyl Methicone, Glyceryl Glucoside, 1,2-Hexanediol, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Erythritol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Synthetic Beeswax, Cetearyl Glucoside, Arginine, Carbomer, Dimethiconol, Polyacrylate-13, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Allantoin, Polyisobutene, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Gum, Tocopherol, Agar, Ubiquinone, Polysorbate 20, Nicotinamide Mononucleotide, Sorbitan Isostearate, Glucose, Xanthan Gum, Astaxanthin, Retinyl Palmitate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ascorbic Acid
Snail Secretion Filtrate 92%
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Betaine
Humectant
Dimethicone
Emollient
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingEthyl Hexanediol
SolventPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Arginine
Masking
Sodium Polyacrylate
Absorbent
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin Conditioning
Palmitic Acid
Emollient
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Water
Skin ConditioningSodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate
SurfactantSnail Secretion Filtrate 92%, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Betaine, Dimethicone, Carbomer, Ethyl Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Allantoin, Arginine, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Water, Sodium Guaiazulene Sulfonate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineAllantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinArginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCarbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
