The Derma Co 1% Hyaluronic Sunscreen Oil-Free Gel SPF 50 Versus Mustela SPF 50 Mineral Sunscreen Lotion
This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
This mineral sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
Humectant
Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid
UV Absorber
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV Absorber
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid
UV Absorber
Glycerin
Humectant
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
UV Absorber
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Triethanolamine
BufferingTapioca Starch
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
UV Absorber
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
UV Filter
Decyl Glucoside
Cleansing
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingIsododecane
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Ceteareth-20
CleansingGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Xylitylglucoside
Humectant
Anhydroxylitol
Humectant
Xylitol
Humectant
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Polyester-7
Skin ConditioningNeopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
EmollientSodium Polyacrylate
Absorbent
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Skin Protecting
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Ethoxydiglycol
HumectantCapsicum Annuum Fruit Extract
Antimicrobial
Zinc PCA
Humectant
Sodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
BHT
Antioxidant
Water, Propylene Glycol, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Glycerin, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triethanolamine, Tapioca Starch, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Decyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Isododecane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl Stearate, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Niacinamide, Polyester-7, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Allantoin, Ethoxydiglycol, Capsicum Annuum Fruit Extract, Zinc PCA, Sodium Gluconate, Tocopheryl Acetate, BHT
Zinc Oxide 24%
Cosmetic Colorant
Water
Skin ConditioningC15-19 Alkane
SolventGlycerin
Humectant
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Emulsifying
Ethyl Macadamiate
Skin Conditioning
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer
Stearyl/Octyldodecyl Citrate Crosspolymer
HumectantLauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Skin Conditioning
Propanediol
Solvent
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Emulsifying
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Hydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Magnesium Sulfate
Sodium Chloride
MaskingCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Malic Acid
Buffering
Zinc Oxide 24%, Water, C15-19 Alkane, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Ethyl Macadamiate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Stearyl/Octyldodecyl Citrate Crosspolymer, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Propanediol, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Magnesium Sulfate, Sodium Chloride, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Malic Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
