Some By Mi Aha Bha Pha Real Cica 92% Cool Calming Soothing Gel Versus Papa Recipe Noble Rot Lifting Cream
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Niacinamide to calm redness and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Adenosine and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Centella Asiatica Extract 92%
CleansingWater
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingDipropylene Glycol
HumectantHydroxyethyl Urea
HumectantMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water
AntimicrobialArtemisia Princeps Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningEclipta Prostrata Extract
Skin ConditioningOcimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCorallina Officinalis Extract
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningAsiaticoside
AntioxidantAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningMadecassoside
AntioxidantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSalicylic Acid
MaskingLactobionic Acid
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingC12-13 Pareth-9
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion Stabilising1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningBenzyl Glycol
SolventEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningRaspberry Ketone
MaskingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
MaskingCentella Asiatica Extract 92%, Water, Niacinamide, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassoside, Allantoin, Arginine, Adenosine, Salicylic Acid, Lactobionic Acid, Citric Acid, C12-13 Pareth-9, Carbomer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Benzyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Raspberry Ketone, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningBotrytis Cinerea/Passiflora Edulis Fruit Extract/Piceatannol Ferment Lysate Filtrate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Glyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingMethyl Glucose Sesquistearate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventArginine
MaskingBenzyl Glycol
SolventHydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Skin ProtectingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningWater, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Botrytis Cinerea/Passiflora Edulis Fruit Extract/Piceatannol Ferment Lysate Filtrate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Propanediol, Arginine, Benzyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineArginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineWe don't have a description for Benzyl Glycol yet.
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.
It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.
Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.
Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.
Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic AcidSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a type of Hyaluronic Acid.
Hyaluronic Acids help moisturize, soothe, and protect the skin.
Read about common types of Hyaluronic Acid here:
Learn more about Sodium Acetylated HyaluronateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water