Sokolova Cosmetics Antioxidant Cream Serum With Vitamin C Versus Don't touch my skin Don't touch my VTMN C
This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide 5%
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 2%
AntioxidantCetearyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantFerulic Acid 1%
AntimicrobialUbiquinone
AntioxidantBetaine
HumectantSodium Rna
Skin ConditioningSodium Lactate
BufferingSerine
MaskingAlanine
MaskingGlycine
BufferingGlutamic Acid
HumectantLidocaine Hcl
Threonine
Arginine
MaskingProline
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientSodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer
Sodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentTetrasodium EDTA
Tocopherol
AntioxidantBeta-Sitosterol
Emulsion StabilisingSqualene
EmollientGlyceryl Linolenate
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Niacinamide 5%, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 2%, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ferulic Acid 1%, Ubiquinone, Betaine, Sodium Rna, Sodium Lactate, Serine, Alanine, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Lidocaine Hcl, Threonine, Arginine, Proline, Lecithin, Sodium Acrylic Acid/Ma Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Tetrasodium EDTA, Tocopherol, Beta-Sitosterol, Squalene, Glyceryl Linolenate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol
Water
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid 15%
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantLactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract
AntioxidantAscorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 3%
AntioxidantTrehalose
HumectantDi-C12-13 Alkyl Malate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingDimethicone
EmollientC12-13 Alkyl Lactate
EmollientCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Tocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingBis-Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate
AntioxidantMethylparaben
PreservativeEthylparaben
PreservativePropylparaben
PreservativeAlgin
MaskingLactic Acid
BufferingSuccinic Acid
BufferingWater, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid 15%, Glycerin, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate 3%, Trehalose, Di-C12-13 Alkyl Malate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Phosphatidylcholine, Dimethicone, C12-13 Alkyl Lactate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Bis-Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Algin, Lactic Acid, Succinic Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is a version of ascorbic acid, or Vitamin C.
This ingredient has many benefits including reducing wrinkles, skin soothing, dark spot fading, and fighting against free radicals.
It helps with dark spot fading by interfering with the process of skin darkening, helping to reduce hyperpigmentation. Like other forms of vitamin C, this ingredient encourages the skin to create more collagen.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
One study found Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate to degrade in sunlight, but is stabilized when combined with acetyl zingerone.
Learn more about Ascorbyl TetraisopalmitateGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water