What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningZinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantGlycerin
HumectantC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingStearic Acid
CleansingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingInulin Lauryl Carbamate
Emulsion StabilisingPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingLactic Acid
BufferingTetrasodium EDTA
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingWater, Zinc Oxide, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Panthenol, Allantoin, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Xanthan Gum, Lactic Acid, Tetrasodium EDTA, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide
Water
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialDimethicone
EmollientIsododecane
EmollientTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantZinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantButyloctyl Salicylate
Skin ConditioningSodium Potassium Aluminum Silicate
Niacinamide
SmoothingAlumina
AbrasiveStyrene/Acrylates Copolymer
Phenethyl Benzoate
EmollientPEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
EmulsifyingPolypodium Leucotomos Leaf Extract
Skin ProtectingPhysalis Angulata Extract
Skin ProtectingMelanin
Skin ProtectingPlankton Extract
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningOxothiazolidine
Skin ProtectingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantHydrogen Dimethicone
Phenylpropanol
MaskingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingMagnesium Sulfate
Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer
Propylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSilica
AbrasivePropanediol
SolventTriethoxycaprylylsilane
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantButylene Glycol
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Citrate
BufferingDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingPropylene Carbonate
SolventLecithin
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingWater, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone, Isododecane, Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Sodium Potassium Aluminum Silicate, Niacinamide, Alumina, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Phenethyl Benzoate, PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Polypodium Leucotomos Leaf Extract, Physalis Angulata Extract, Melanin, Plankton Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Oxothiazolidine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrogen Dimethicone, Phenylpropanol, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Magnesium Sulfate, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, Propylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Silica, Propanediol, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, Lecithin, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterZinc Oxide is a mineral broad-spectrum UV filter; it is the broadest UVA and UVB reflector approved by the FDA. It also has skin protectant and skin soothing properties.
Zinc oxide is one of the most effective broad-spectrum UV filters. It protects against UVB, UVAII, and UVAI. In comparison to its counterpart titanium dioxide, zinc oxide provides uniform and extended UVA protection.
Another great benefit? This ingredient is highly photostable so it won't degrade easily under sunlight.
A common myth is that mineral UV filters are widely believed to primarily reflect UV light.
However, modern research shows titanium dioxide absorbs UV radiation like chemical filters (~95% absorption & 5% reflection).
Zinc oxide has great skin soothing properties so you'll likely find this in sunscreens formulated for sensitive skin or babies/children. It is unlikely to cause "eye sting" like other sunscreen ingredients.
Regulatory agencies consider zinc oxide to be non-toxic and safe. It has also been shown to not penetrate the skin.
Unfortunately, this ingredient does leave a visible white cast. This is why mineral sunscreens are often less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid ones.
In cosmetics, zinc oxide can be found in both non-nano and nano-sized forms. The nano version is used to reduce white cast and improve the texture of sunscreen formulas.
There are ongoing concerns surrounding nano-zinc oxide's impact on marine ecosystems and whether it can be absorbed into skin.
Regarding marine ecosystems and coral reefs, there is no conclusive evidence that any form of zinc oxide (or any other sunscreen ingredients) will cause harm. The science is still developing but many consumers are keeping a close eye on this issue.
Please note, many destinations have reef-safety sunscreen rules. For instance, the U.S. Virgin Islands advises all visitors to use non-nano mineral sunscreens.
There has also been some stir about whether micronized or nano zinc oxide has potential photoxicity and absorption through the skin/lungs.
An in-vitro (done in a test tube or petri dish) study demonstrated micronized zinc oxide to have potential phototoxicity. There's no need to fret; the EU Commission's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has stated, "The relevance of these findings needs to be clarified by appropriate investigations in vivo." Or in other words, further studies done on living organisms are needed to prove this.
Current research shows zinc oxide nanoparticles do not penetrate intact or sunburned skin. They either remain on the surface or in the outermost layer of dead skin (stratum corneum).
Zinc oxide is one of only two classified mineral UV filters with titanium dioxide being the other one.
Fun fact: Zinc has been used throughout history as an ingredient in paint and medicine. An Indian text from 500BC is believed to list zinc oxide as a salve for open wound. The Ancient Greek physician Dioscorides has also mentioned the use of zinc as an ointment in 1AD.
Learn more about Zinc Oxide