Sesderma Azelac RU Liposomal Serum Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Serum
This brightening serum is formulated around 4-Butylresorcinol and Retinol to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantLecithin
EmollientAlcohol
AntimicrobialPolymethyl Methacrylate
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emulsifying4-Butylresorcinol
AntioxidantAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantRetinol
Skin ConditioningAzelaic Acid
BufferingNiacin
SmoothingUndecylenoyl Phenylalanine
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhetinic Acid
Skin ConditioningMorus Alba Root Extract
BleachingDiacetyl Boldine
Skin ConditioningPEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingSodium Cholate
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTriethanolamine
BufferingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantBHT
AntioxidantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSodium Chloride
MaskingHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingBHA
AntioxidantPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantTriisopropanolamine
BufferingHydrochloric Acid
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingCitronellyl Methylcrotonate
MaskingCitral
PerfumingCoumarin
PerfumingEugenol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingIsoeugenol
PerfumingWater, Propylene Glycol, Lecithin, Alcohol, Polymethyl Methacrylate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, 4-Butylresorcinol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Retinol, Azelaic Acid, Niacin, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Morus Alba Root Extract, Diacetyl Boldine, PEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone, Sodium Cholate, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Tocopheryl Acetate, BHT, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Chloride, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, BHA, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Triisopropanolamine, Hydrochloric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum, Citronellyl Methylcrotonate, Citral, Coumarin, Eugenol, Limonene, Isoeugenol
Water
Skin ConditioningBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningPEG-8
HumectantPropanediol
SolventBis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
EmollientMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantGlycereth-26
HumectantPEG-75
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantAdansonia Digitata Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-32
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantFaex Extract
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningCola Acuminata Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningAnthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
MaskingHydrolyzed Algin
Pantethine
EmollientCaffeine
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientSodium Rna
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantSqualane
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantOleth-3 Phosphate
SurfactantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientOleth-3
EmulsifyingOleth-5
EmulsifyingCholeth-24
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingJojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters
SurfactantCeteth-24
CleansingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTriethanolamine
BufferingTetrasodium EDTA
BHT
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeDisodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeCI 14700
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Bifida Ferment Lysate, PEG-8, Propanediol, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycereth-26, PEG-75, Butylene Glycol, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Tripeptide-32, Sodium Hyaluronate, Faex Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Cola Acuminata Seed Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Algin, Pantethine, Caffeine, Lecithin, Sodium Rna, Bisabolol, Squalane, Glycerin, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Oleth-3, Oleth-5, Choleth-24, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters, Ceteth-24, Tocopheryl Acetate, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Tetrasodium EDTA, BHT, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, CI 14700, CI 19140
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTCarbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateTriethanolamine (TEA) is an emulsifier and pH adjuster. It is created using ethylene oxide and ammonia. This gives Triethanolamine a nitrogen core and a similar scent to ammonia.
As an emulsifier, it prevents ingredients from separating and enhances texture by adding volume to a product.
PH adjusters are common in cosmetic products. The pH of a product can affect the effectiveness of other ingredients. A product with a high pH may also irritate the skin.
If you are looking for the tea leaf ingredient, click here.
Learn more about TriethanolamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum