What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantOctyldodecanol
EmollientSqualane
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingLactococcus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-2 Stearate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientMicrocrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentStearic Acid
CleansingStearyl Alcohol
EmollientFucose
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantLactic Acid
BufferingPalmitic Acid
EmollientCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Chloride
MaskingParfum
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Octyldodecanol, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Fucose, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lactic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Cellulose Gum, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Chloride, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDimethicone
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientTribehenin
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantSteareth-20
CleansingSteareth-2
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSucrose Dilaurate
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientDimethiconol
EmollientHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Cera
EmollientPisum Sativum Extract
Skin ConditioningSantalum Album Wood Extract
PerfumingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingBerberis Vulgaris Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningP-Anisic Acid
MaskingSorbic Acid
PreservativeAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantSorbitol
HumectantVaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract
AstringentSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeCitric Acid
BufferingSuperoxide Dismutase
AntioxidantCalcium Ascorbate
AntioxidantSaccharum Officinarum Extract
MoisturisingCitrus Limon Fruit Extract
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
MaskingAcer Saccharum Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone, Stearyl Alcohol, Tribehenin, Glycerin, Steareth-20, Steareth-2, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Phenoxyethanol, Sucrose Dilaurate, Octyldodecanol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Dimethiconol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 20, Tocopheryl Acetate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera, Pisum Sativum Extract, Santalum Album Wood Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Berberis Vulgaris Bark Extract, P-Anisic Acid, Sorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Sorbitol, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit/Leaf Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Superoxide Dismutase, Calcium Ascorbate, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Acer Saccharum Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateStearyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol from stearic acid. It is a white, waxy compound used to emulsify ingredients used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Emollients help soothe and hydrate the skin by trapping moisture.
Fatty alcohols are usually derived from natural fats and oils and therefore do not have the same drying or irritating effect as solvent (ethanol) alcohols.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Stearyl AlcoholTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum