What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
Emollient
Cyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion Stabilising
Phenyl Trimethicone
Skin Conditioning
Isododecane
EmollientIsobutyl Methacrylate
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Quaternium-90 Bentonite
Propylene Carbonate
SolventButylene Glycol
Humectant
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
Emulsifying
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emollient
Silica
Abrasive
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
Emulsifying
Sodium Chloride
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTriethylhexanoin
MaskingPolyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
Emulsifying
Hexyl Laurate
Emollient
Lecithin
Emollient
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Emulsifying
Isopropyl Myristate
Emollient
Isostearic Acid
Cleansing
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Emulsifying
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Phenyl Trimethicone, Isododecane, Isobutyl Methacrylate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Quaternium-90 Bentonite, Propylene Carbonate, Butylene Glycol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Silica, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Sodium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Triethylhexanoin, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Hexyl Laurate, Lecithin, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Isopropyl Myristate, Isostearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, CI 77891, CI 77492, CI 77491, CI 77499
Polyisobutene
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
EmollientHydrogenated Styrene/Methylstyrene/Indene Copolymer
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientC9-12 Alkane
SolventHydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Synthetic Wax
Abrasive
Aluminum Hydroxide
EmollientC15-19 Alkane
SolventBis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
EmollientDimethicone
Emollient
Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingSorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Cera Microcristallina
Emulsion StabilisingDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingPhytosteryl Oleate
Skin ConditioningDimethicone/Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer
Propylene Carbonate
SolventPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Emulsifying
Squalane
Emollient
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Lecithin
Emollient
Isopropyl Myristate
Emollient
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Isostearic Acid
Cleansing
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Emulsifying
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
Antioxidant
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantIron Oxides
Polyisobutene, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Hydrogenated Styrene/Methylstyrene/Indene Copolymer, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, C9-12 Alkane, Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Synthetic Wax, Aluminum Hydroxide, C15-19 Alkane, Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Dimethicone, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Cera Microcristallina, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Phytosteryl Oleate, Dimethicone/Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Propylene Carbonate, Phenoxyethanol, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Squalane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lecithin, Isopropyl Myristate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Isostearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, CI 77891, Iron Oxides
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCi 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Learn more about CI 77891Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeEthylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinIsopropyl Myristate is an ester made by combining isopropyl alcohol with myristic acid.
It is primarily an emollient and penetration enhancer that gives products a lightweight, silky feel without the heaviness of oils.
This ingredient is generally considered non-toxic, non-irritating, and has low absorption potential.
You might have heard that this ingredient clogs pores. This reputation comes from the older rabbit ear studies which are more sensitive than human skin to clogging.
Dermatologist Dr. Zoe Draelos has also confirmed in a peer-reviewed paper that products containing comedogenic ingredients are not necessarily comedogenic themselves.
A small subset of people (~2%) may experience contact sensitivity so patch testing is a reasonable idea if you have reactive skin.
Since this ingredient is an ester of myristic acid (a C14 fatty acid), it falls within the carbon chain range that is known to feed Malassezia. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Isopropyl MyristateIsostearic Acid is a fatty acid and a structural cousin of stearic acid. It is an emulsifier.
The branched structure of this ingredient enhances fluidity and gives it a lighter, less greasy feel compared to other fatty acids. It helps improve texture and consistency because it prevents oil and water phases from separating.
This ingredient is sourced from plant-based oils like soybean or rapeseed.
Clinical studies found no signs of irritation from this ingredient.
Since Isostearic Acid is an 18-carbon fatty acid, it is in the range that Malassezia can feed on. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
You might have seen sources that this ingredient is comedogenic. The original comedogenic testing on rabbit ear actually tested the ester, Isopropyl Isostearate and not Isostearic acid itself. There has been no comedogenic testing done on this ingredient, but it may be worth patch testing if you have acne-prone skin.
Learn more about Isostearic AcidLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate is a plant-derived emulsifier made by combining glycerin and ricinoleic acid.
It works well for giving buttery lip balms and low-viscosity water-in-oil emulsions a non-greasy and pleasant skin feel.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-3%.
This ingredient is mild and non-irritating in nature.
Because it is derived from ricinoleic acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Ricinoleic acid is an unsaturated fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-3 PolyricinoleatePolyhydroxystearic Acid is a vegetable-derived soft wax made from castor oil. It's an emulsion stabilizer, thickener, and film former.
You'll likely see it in sunscreens because it helps disperse pigments and UV-reflecting minerals like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide evenly.
Depending on the concentration, it can drastically change the texture of a product from pasty solid (like lipstick) to sprayable liquid.
The CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics. The highest reported use concentration is 14.2% in lipsticks.
Learn more about Polyhydroxystearic AcidThis ingredient is a solvent. It helps dissolve active ingredients and alter the texture of products.
Propylene Carbonate is commonly used in makeup and with clay, such as montmorillonite or bentonite.
Studies show this ingredient to be safe for cosmetics. When it is undiluted, it can cause skin irritation. (It is always diluted in skincare and makeup). This ingredient is water-soluble.
Propylene Carbonate is created from propylene glycol and carbonic acid.
Learn more about Propylene CarbonateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl Acetate
