What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Sodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingTrehalose
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientRetinol
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCarnosine
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningBiotinoyl Hexapeptide-2 Amide
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Octapeptide-3
HumectantPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantHeptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12
Skin ConditioningMelatonin
AntioxidantMadecassoside
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 20
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSodium Lactate
BufferingSodium Hyaluronate, Cellulose Gum, Trehalose, Glycerin, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Retinol, Adenosine, Carnosine, Ascorbic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Biotinoyl Hexapeptide-2 Amide, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12, Melatonin, Madecassoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Carbomer, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 20, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Lactate
Squalane
EmollientDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientCeresin
Emulsion StabilisingPolyethylene
AbrasiveMica
Cosmetic ColorantBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
EmollientSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSilica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientEthylene/Propylene Copolymer
AbrasiveGlycerin
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingRetinol
Skin ConditioningOleic Acid
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingLecithin
EmollientPolycaprolactone
StabilisingTerminalia Arjuna Extract
Skin ConditioningUbiquinone
AntioxidantAstaxanthin
Skin ConditioningOryza Sativa Bran Wax
Skin ConditioningBakuchiol
AntimicrobialSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPhaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningAcmella Oleracea Extract
Skin ProtectingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningBiotinoyl Hexapeptide-2 Amide
Skin ConditioningHeptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12
Skin ConditioningSpilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
AntimicrobialAstragalus Membranaceus Root Extract
EmollientHaematococcus Pluvialis Extract
AntioxidantOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingPsoralea Corylifolia Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningAvena Sativa Meal Extract
SoothingTocopherol
Antioxidant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin ConditioningSodium Magnesium Silicate
Squalane, Diisostearyl Malate, Ceresin, Polyethylene, Mica, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Synthetic Wax, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer, Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Retinol, Oleic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Lecithin, Polycaprolactone, Terminalia Arjuna Extract, Ubiquinone, Astaxanthin, Oryza Sativa Bran Wax, Bakuchiol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phaseolus Radiatus Seed Extract, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Ceramide NP, Biotinoyl Hexapeptide-2 Amide, Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12, Spilanthes Acmella Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Psoralea Corylifolia Seed Extract, Avena Sativa Meal Extract, Tocopherol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Water, Sodium Magnesium Silicate
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Biotinoyl Hexapeptide-2 Amide is a peptide.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHeptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12 is a peptide.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Retinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).
It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.
That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.
Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.
Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.
Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.
Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.
The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.
Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.
In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:
That last two are worth a closer look.
A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.
Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.
So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).
It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.
The research backs this up as well.
A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.
Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).
Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.
One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.
It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.
Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.
This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.
Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.
The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.
Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.
Learn more about RetinolSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium Hyaluronate