What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Isononyl Isononanoate
EmollientPropylene Glycol Dibenzoate
Skin ConditioningPhenyl Trimethicone
Skin Conditioning
Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
EmollientEthylcellulose
Synthetic Wax
Abrasive
Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer
Abrasive
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Dextrin Palmitate/Ethylhexanoate
Emulsifying
Water
Skin ConditioningLitchi Chinensis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
Antioxidant
Glycerin
Humectant
Copper Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin Conditioning
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Humectant
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Citrus Junos Seed Extract
Antioxidant
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Dextrin Palmitate
Emulsifying
Silica Silylate
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
Emulsifying
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
Emulsifying
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
Emollient
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment
AntimicrobialDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCalcium Disodium EDTA
Octyldodecanol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Propylene Glycol Dibenzoate, Phenyl Trimethicone, Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Ethylcellulose, Synthetic Wax, Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Dextrin Palmitate/Ethylhexanoate, Water, Litchi Chinensis Fruit Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Glycerin, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Citrus Junos Seed Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Dextrin Palmitate, Silica Silylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dimethicone, Diisostearyl Malate, CI 77492, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Dipropylene Glycol, Calcium Disodium EDTA
Polybutene
Hydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Emollient
Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer
Cera Microcristallina
Emulsion StabilisingSilica
Abrasive
Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Garcinia Indica Seed Butter
Skin Conditioning
Euterpe Oleracea Sterols
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter
Skin Conditioning
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
MaskingLinoleic Acid
Cleansing
Linolenic Acid
Cleansing
Oleic Acid
Emollient
Lactic Acid
Buffering
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Copernicia Cerifera Wax
Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
Emollient
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Emollient
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Dicalcium Phosphate
Abrasive
Tribehenin
Emollient
Propylene Carbonate
SolventStearalkonium Hectorite
Gel FormingParfum
Masking
Citral
Perfuming
Limonene
Perfuming
Linalool
Perfuming
Iron Oxides
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantPolybutene, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer, Cera Microcristallina, Silica, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Garcinia Indica Seed Butter, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Oleic Acid, Lactic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Sorbitan Isostearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Octyldodecanol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Dicalcium Phosphate, Tribehenin, Propylene Carbonate, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Parfum, Citral, Limonene, Linalool, Iron Oxides, CI 77891
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
