Dr. Idriss Major Fade Hyper Serum Versus Cipher Skincare Night Shift Holistic Tone Balancing Treatment
This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Alpha-Arbutin to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
This brightening serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate to fade the look of dark spots and calm redness.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningAlpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Dimethicone
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingKojic Acid
AntioxidantDiglucosyl Gallic Acid
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Phytate
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeMica
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentylene Glycol, Alpha-Arbutin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Squalane, Cetearyl Olivate, Dimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Kojic Acid, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Persea Gratissima Oil, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Phytate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Mica, CI 77891
Water
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingPotassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Skin ConditioningIsodecyl Neopentanoate
EmollientAlpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantCannabis Sativa Seed Oil
EmollientGlycereth-26
HumectantPEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether
Skin ConditioningUndecane
EmollientPropanediol
SolventLactobacillus/Eriodictyon Californicum Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantEuterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Tridecane
PerfumingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingGlycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPlankton Extract
Skin ConditioningChlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantGlyceryl Oleate Citrate
EmulsifyingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin ConditioningXylitylglucoside
HumectantGlabridin
BleachingMadecassoside
AntioxidantBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientOlive Glycerides
EmulsifyingAnhydroxylitol
HumectantXylitol
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantBisabolol
AntioxidantZingiber Officinale Root Extract
MaskingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingLecithin
EmollientPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingDisodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningLactic Acid
BufferingWater, Niacinamide, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Alpha-Arbutin, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Glycereth-26, PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether, Undecane, Propanediol, Lactobacillus/Eriodictyon Californicum Ferment Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Oil, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Tridecane, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, Plankton Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Glycerin, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Xylitylglucoside, Glabridin, Madecassoside, Beta-Glucan, Panthenol, Cetyl Alcohol, Olive Glycerides, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Tocopherol, Bisabolol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lecithin, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lactic Acid
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Alpha-Arbutin is a brightening active used to fade dark spots, melasma, and post-acne marks. Structurally, it is a hydroquinone with a sugar molecule attached (but is much gentler than raw hydroquinone).
It has a pretty elegant way of working; it slots into tyrosinase, or the key enzyme that your skin uses to make melanin), and competitively blocks it so your skin produces less pigment over time.
There are two forms of arbutin and alpha is the better one to reach for: it works at lower amounts, absorbs into skin more easily, and has a strong safety record.
The science backs this up too: lab and animal studies confirm it lowers melanin by blocking tyosinase and the more you use (up to a point), the more it works.
Human studies look good too.
A 2024 trial found a cream with 5% alpha-arbutin and 2% kojic acid worked about as well as a prescription melasma cream but with fewer side effects. Another study showed 2% alpha-arbutin paired with 10% Trihydroxybenzoic Acid Glucoside and sunscreen faded dark spots and melasma without causing irritation.
Concentration-wise, most serums land in the 1-2% range.
The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety concluded that alpha-arbutin is safe in face creams up to 2% and body lotions up to 0.5%.
Overall, this is a well-studied and low-irritation brightener that's a great pick for anyone dealing with uneven skin tone. It also pairs well with vitamin C, niacinamide, and sunscreen.
Learn more about Alpha-ArbutinCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Learn more about Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water