Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare Alpha Beta AHA/BHA Daily Cleansing Gel Versus Dermalogica Ultracalming Cleanser
This mandelic acid gel cleanser is formulated around Mandelic Acid to exfoliate and smooth skin.
This mild cream cleanser is made to cleanse while calming and soothing your skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventSodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate
CleansingCocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
CleansingSodium Cocoamphoacetate
CleansingDisteareth-75 Ipdi
Glycereth-7 Caprylate/Caprate
EmulsifyingPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingMandelic Acid
AntimicrobialGlycolic Acid
BufferingSalix Alba Bark Extract
AstringentPhytic Acid
ChelatingCitric Acid
BufferingFarnesol
PerfumingBarosma Betulina Leaf Extract
PerfumingSodium PCA
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTremella Fuciformis Extract
HumectantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventButylene Glycol
HumectantPEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-3 Laurate
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Chloride
MaskingGluconolactone
ChelatingSodium Phytate
ChelatingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingJasminum Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract
MaskingEugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract
AstringentLavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
MaskingVitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBenzoic Acid
MaskingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeWater, Glycerin, Propanediol, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Disteareth-75 Ipdi, Glycereth-7 Caprylate/Caprate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Mandelic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Phytic Acid, Citric Acid, Farnesol, Barosma Betulina Leaf Extract, Sodium PCA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Bisabolol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Butylene Glycol, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Chloride, Gluconolactone, Sodium Phytate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Jasminum Officinale Flower/Leaf Extract, Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientBisabolol
AntioxidantZingiber Officinale Root Extract
MaskingLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialGlycerin
HumectantAvena Sativa Kernel Extract
AbrasiveCucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
EmollientRubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
AstringentLavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
CleansingSalix Alba Bark Extract
AstringentUsnea Barbata Extract
Butylene Glycol
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Skin ConditioningCitrus Medica Limonum Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningFumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningFumaric Acid
BufferingEchinacea Purpurea Extract
MoisturisingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCocamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate
Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate
CleansingCetrimonium Chloride
AntimicrobialAminomethyl Propanol
BufferingGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientDisodium EDTA
ChelatingWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Bisabolol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glycerin, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Usnea Barbata Extract, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Citrus Medica Limonum Fruit Extract, Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Fumaric Acid, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Panthenol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Cocamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Aminomethyl Propanol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Disodium EDTA
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.
It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.
A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.
In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.
You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.
Learn more about BisabololButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinSalix Alba Bark Extract comes from the bark of the white willow tree. The official CosIng listing states this ingredient to have astringent, skin conditioning, soothing, and tonic properties.
Its star compound is salicin, a natural glucoside that is chemically related to salicylic acid. That's why you'll often see it marketed as a "natural BHA alternative" but that's a bit of a stretch.
Your skin can't convert salicin to salicylic acid because it needs specific enzymes that aren't present on the skin's surface. It won't behave like true salicylic acid, especially at the concentrations used in cosmetics.
However, this ingredient has its own perks. It contains flavonoids, polyphenols, and tannins that give it proven antioxidant and soothing properties.
An 8-week clinical study found a cream with 2% of this extract improved skin microcirculation, elasticity, and dark circles. This is most likely due to its role in increasing hyaluronic acid synthesis in fibroblasts and improved vascular integrity.
Another study found a topical serum with 0.5% salicin showed improvements in visible signs of aging, hyperpigmentation, and texture.
Just be careful if you have a known aspirin/salicylate allergy and be sure to consult with a medical professional about using this ingredient if you do.
Fun fact: Willow Bark extract has been used for thousands of years and ancient civilizations used white willow to help treat pain and fevers.
Learn more about Salix Alba Bark ExtractWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water