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Dermalogica Ultracalming Cleanser Ingredients Explained

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Published on July 13, 2020

Overview

What it is

Face cleanser with 29 ingredients that contains exfoliants

Cool Features

It is cruelty-free and reef safe

Suited For

It has ingredients that are good for dry skin, brightening skin, sensitive skin and oily skin

Free From

It doesn't contain any harsh alcohols, fragrances, oils, parabens, silicones or sulfates

Fun facts

Dermalogica is from United States. This product is used in 74 routines created by our community.

We independently verify ingredients and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Does this product need an update? Let us know.

You should know

Here's our breakdown of the notable ingredients, benefits, and concerns we determined from the ingredients in this product. Click any item to learn more.

Notable Ingredients

Exfoliators

Benefits

Hydrating (2)
Good For Oily Skin
Reduces Irritation (2)
Brightening

Concerns

May Worsen Oily Skin
Acne Trigger
Irritating

Ingredient Info

Click any item below to learn more and view relevant ingredients.
alcohol-free
silicon-free
fragrance-free
sulfate-free
paraben-free
oil-free
fungal-acne safe
reef-safe
eu-allergen-free
vegan
cruelty-free

Ingredients Overview

Here's our quick-to-read summary of the ingredients in this product. Keep scrolling if you'd like to learn more about what each ingredient does!
Ingredient
Features
1
Skin Conditioning, Solvent
2
Emollient, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising
2 / 1
Fatty Alcohol IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon
3
Masking, Skin Conditioning, Soothing
Helps reduce irritation Icon
4
Masking, Skin Conditioning, Tonic
5
Antimicrobial
6
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Solvent
0 / 0
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin Icon
7
Abrasive, Antioxidant, Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Exfoliant IconAntioxidant IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin Icon
8
Emollient, Skin Conditioning
9
Astringent, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing, Tonic
10
Cleansing, Masking, Refreshing, Tonic
EU Allergen Icon
11
Astringent, Skin Conditioning, Soothing, Tonic
Good for Oily Skin Icon
12
13
Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning, Solvent
1 / 0
14
Skin Conditioning, Solvent
15
Antiseborrhoeic
16
17
Masking, Skin Conditioning
May cause irritation Icon
18
Skin Conditioning
19
Buffering
20
Moisturising, Skin Conditioning, Tonic
21
Skin Conditioning
0 / 0
Helps reduce irritation Icon
22
23
24
25
Cleansing, Foaming, Skin Conditioning
26
Antimicrobial, Emulsifying, Preservative
Preservative Icon
27
Buffering
28
Emollient, Emulsifying
29

Ingredients Explained

This product contains 29 ingredients. Click on any ingredient to learn more about it
1
What it does: Skin Conditioning, Solvent
Community Rating: Loved

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. Talk about multi-purpose! If you see this, drink a glass of water. Stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water
2
What it does: Emollient, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising
Community Rating: Very Disliked

Cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is mainly used as an emulsifier. Emulsifiers help prevent the separation of oils and products. Due to its composition, it can also be used to thicken a product or help create foam.

Cetearyl alcohol is an emollient. Emollients help soothe and hydrate the skin by trapping moisture.

Studies show Cetearyl alcohol is non-toxic and non-irritating. The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient is usually derived from plant oils such as palm, vegetable, or coconut oils. There is debate on whether this ingredient will cause acne.

Due to the fatty acid base, this ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis safe.

Learn more about Cetearyl Alcohol
3
What it does: Masking, Skin Conditioning, Soothing
Community Rating: Loved

Bisabolol is pimarily used to add fragrance to a product. However, it is also famous for helping soothe skin.

Bisabolol comes from German chamomile essential oil. Synthetic Bisabolol has been shown to be less effective.

Bisabolol helps soothe skin. It does this by blocking the inflammatory signals, helping to reduce your body's reaction to irritation.

Bisabolol also interferes with the process of hyperpigmentation. This can help with reducing dark spots and uneven tone.

Bisabolol is an antioxidant. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. By fighting these free-radicals, Bisabolol may slow down signs of aging.

Studies have shown Bisabolol to have antimicrobial properties and may be a fungicide. These properties help preserve a product's shelf life.

Bisabolol also helps the absorption of other ingredients.

Learn more about Bisabolol
4
What it does: Masking, Skin Conditioning, Tonic
Community Rating: Liked

Zingiber Officinale is more commonly known as ginger.

Ginger root has antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial properties.

The antioxidant properties help protect your body from free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. As a result, ginger may help slow down signs of aging such as hyperpigmentation and wrinkles.

Studies show ginger inhibits the enzyme that breaks down collagen. It also helps with:

Ginger has no negative side-effects and is safe to use for all skin types. (Be sure to patch test just in case you have a ginger allergy!)

Ginger originates from Southeast Asia but has spread throughout the world. It is now a common spice used in many cultures.

Learn more about Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
5
What it does: Antimicrobial
Community Rating: Liked

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative. It comes from fermenting radish roots with a bacteria called leuconostoc. Leuconostoc comes from lactic acid. This bacteria is used to make the traditional Korean side-dish, kimchi. It is also used to make sourdough bread (both incredibly yummy foods).

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate has antimicrobial properties and helps prevent the growth of bacteria in a product.

It is believed the preservation property comes from salicylic acid and ammonium salt, neither of which are involved in the fermentation process.

Learn more about Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
6
What it does: Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Solvent
Community Rating: Loved

Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin. It helps moisturize and protect your skin.

A study from 2016 found glycerin to be more effective as a humectant than AHAs and hyaluronic acid.

As a humectant, it helps the skin stay hydrated by pulling moisture to your skin. The low molecular weight of glycerin allows it to pull moisture into the deeper layers of your skin.

Hydrated skin improves your skin barrier; Your skin barrier helps protect against irritants and bacteria.

Glycerin has also been found to have antimicrobial and antiviral properties. Due to these properties, glycerin is often used in wound and burn treatments.

In cosmetics, glycerin is usually derived from plants such as soybean or palm. However, it can also be sourced from animals, such as tallow or animal fat.

This ingredient is organic, colorless, odorless, and non-toxic.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin
7
What it does: Abrasive, Antioxidant, Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Community Rating: Loved

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract is is derived from colloidal oatmeal. It is formed from grounded oatmeal and a liquid base.

Besides being a healthy breakfast, oats have many benefits in skincare too.

This ingredient helps sooth, hydrate, and protect the skin. The starches in colloidal oatmeal are able to bind water, keeping the skin hydrated.

The cellulose and fiber in colloidal oatmeal help reduce inflammation. This can also help the skin feel softer.

Colloidal Oatmeal is also an antioxidant. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radical molecules. These molecules may damage skin cells.

Avenacins found in colloidal oatmeal have anti-fungal properties. The saponins have a cleaning affect.

Overall, colloidal oatmeal is great at providing the skin with moisture and help sooth irritation. It also protects the skin in various ways.

Learn more about Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
8
What it does: Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Community Rating: Liked

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract comes from the cucumber. Cucumis Sativus is native to South Asia and can now be found on every continent.

Cucumbers are mostly made up of water (95%), and the other 5% is composed of: vitamin C, caffeic acid, fatty acids, amino acids, and other minerals.

Cucumbers have anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and hydrating properties.

Vitamin C and Caffeic acid are potent antioxidants that may help with anti-aging. Antioxidants help neutralize free-radical molecules, or unstable molecules that may damage our skin cells and DNA.

Cucumbers contain shikimate dehydrigenase, an enzyme shown to help reduce inflammation and soothe the skin. The amino acids help nourish our skin's natural acid mantle. Our acid mantle is formed from the mixing of sebum and sweat. This slightly acidic film acts as a barrier to protect us from bacteria, viruses, and other contaminants.

Unless you have an allergy to cucumbers, it is generally a non-irritating ingredient.

Learn more about Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
9
What it does: Astringent, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing, Tonic

We don't have a description for Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract.

10
What it does: Cleansing, Masking, Refreshing, Tonic
Community Rating: Very Disliked

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract comes from the lavender plant. Lavender extract has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

Many components of lavender flowers are antioxidants, such as ferulic acid, caffeic acid, and several flavonoids.

Traditional Iranian folk medicine uses Lavender extract to help treat inflammation.

Lavender extract may have a scent. It contains linalool, a known allergen. However, lavender extract contains less linalool than lavender essential oil.

Learn more about Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
11
What it does: Astringent, Skin Conditioning, Soothing, Tonic
Community Rating: Liked

Salix Alba Bark Extract comes from the white willow tree, which is native to Europe and Central Asia.

Salix Alba Bark Extract has often been described as salicylic acid's cousin. This is due to the salicin it contains. However, studies are limited showing salix alba bark to be an effective salicylic acid alternative.

Salicin does have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It has shown to decrease the formation of inflammatory mediators, such as tumor necrosis factor-α and nuclear factor-kappa B. Salicin also has a mildly exfoliating effect on the skin.

Several other components in salix alba bark extract also contain antioxidant properties, such as flavonoids and polyphenols. Antioxidants may help with anti-aging as they neutralize harmful free-radical molecules.

Willow Bark extract has been used for thousands of years. Ancient civilizations used white willow to help treat pain and fevers.

Learn more about Salix Alba Bark Extract
12

We don't have a description for Usnea Barbata Extract.

13
What it does: Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning, Solvent
Community Rating: Mixed

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

  • It is a solvent, meaning that it helps to dissolve other ingredients. This also enhances the absorption of the product into one's skin.
  • It is a humectant, which means that it helps attract moisture into the skin.
  • It helps improve product application.

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient. It is unlikely to irritate skin, and works well with pretty much all other ingredients.

14
What it does: Skin Conditioning, Solvent
Community Rating: Mixed

Pentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.

The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.

This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can help thicken or emulsify a product. Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating.

Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.

Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.

Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.

Learn more about Pentylene Glycol
15
What it does: Antiseborrhoeic

We don't have a description for Hydroxyphenyl Glycinamide.

16
What it does:

PABA, or para-aminobenzoic acid, is a UV-B absorber. When it is exposed to UV, it converts the energy to infrared heat.

This ingredient was one of the earliest to be used in sunscreen, being first patented in 1943. Due to studies in the following decades, this ingredient fell out of popularity in sunscreens.

Derivatives of this ingredient can be found in sunscreen, such as Ethylhexyl Dimethyl Paba.

PABA can be found in the human body, beef, and eggs.

Learn more about Paba
17
What it does: Masking, Skin Conditioning
Community Rating: Very Disliked

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract comes from lemons. While lemon extract is exfoliating and antimicrobial, it can also cause skin sensitivity.

Lemons contains antioxidants, which may help with anti-aging. They are also rich in citric acid, an AHA.

And of course, lemons are rich in Vitamin C. Vitamin C helps with skin-brightening and increasing collagen production.

The acidity of lemons may work as an astringent for acne.

However, lemons can also cause skin sensitivity due to its limonene content. It can also increase photosensitivity, or sensitivity to the sun.

This ingredient is also used to add a lemon scent to products.

Learn more about Citrus Limon Fruit Extract
18
What it does: Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Fumaria Officinalis Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract.

19
What it does: Buffering

We don't have a description for Fumaric Acid.

20
What it does: Moisturising, Skin Conditioning, Tonic

We don't have a description for Echinacea Purpurea Extract.

21
What it does: Skin Conditioning
Community Rating: Loved

Panthenol (also referred to as pro-vitamin B5) is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin.

lt is a humectant, meaning that it helps the skin attract and retain moisture.

Another benefit is the anti-inflammatory abilities. This means that it's great for sensitive, irritation-prone skin.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

Learn more about Panthenol
22
What it does:
Community Rating: Disliked

Acrylates Copolymer is used as a film-forming agent and texture enhancer.

After applied, Acrylates Copolymer forms a thin film cover that helps skin feel more soft. It can help sunscreens become more water-resistant.

It is also used to make a product more thick.

Learn more about Acrylates Copolymer
23
What it does:

We don't have a description for Peg-Crosspolymer.

We don't have a description for Cocamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate.

25
What it does: Cleansing, Foaming, Skin Conditioning
Community Rating: Very Disliked

We don't have a description for Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate.

26
What it does: Antimicrobial, Emulsifying, Preservative
Community Rating: Liked

This ingredient is a preservative, antimicrobial, and emulsifier. It is often used in cosmetics for its ability to cleanse, condition, and reduce static.

Cetrimonium chloride is a quaternary ammonium salt, meaning it has a water-soluble structure.

27
What it does: Buffering
Community Rating: Liked

Aminomethyl Propanol is used to adjust the pH of products. It is also used as a base to create other organic compounds. Having a balanced pH is important for protecting your skin.

Aminomethyl propanol is safe to use in cosmetics up to 1%. It is soluble in water.

28
What it does: Emollient, Emulsifying
Community Rating: Mixed

Glyceryl Caprylate comes from glycerin and caprylic acid, a fatty acid from coconut.

Glyceryl Caprylate is used for its emollient and emulsifier properties.

As an emollient, it helps hydrate your skin. Emollients work by creating a barrier on your skin to trap moisture in, helping to keep your skin soft and smooth.

Glyceryl Caprylate helps keep the ingredients such as oil and water together as an emulsifier.

Learn more about Glyceryl Caprylate
29
What it does:
Community Rating: Disliked

Disodium EDTA plays a role in making products more stable by aiding other preservatives.

It is a chelating agent, meaning it neutralizes metal ions that may be found in a product.

Disodium EDTA is a salt of edetic acid and is found to be safe in cosmetic ingredients.

Learn more about Disodium EDTA
Embed Ingredients

Here's what our community thinks of the 29 ingredients in this product ✨

38% are loved or liked
10% have mixed ratings
21% are disliked or very disliked
31% have no rating yet

When to use

We've created a guide with info on when you should use Dermalogica Ultracalming Cleanser. We've also included some recommended products to use it with, as well as some routine inspiration!

Read our guide on when to use Ultracalming Cleanser ->
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