What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSorbitan Stearate
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientLaminaria Japonica Extract
Skin ProtectingEclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingFicus Carica Fruit Extract
HumectantCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil
MaskingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCitrus Nobilis Peel Oil
MaskingLitsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
MaskingPalmitic Acid
EmollientBisabolol
AntioxidantStearic Acid
CleansingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingButylene Glycol
HumectantTromethamine
BufferingLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingFructooligosaccharides
HumectantTrisodium EDTA
Beta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningMyristic Acid
CleansingHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantRaffinose
Skin ConditioningFolic Acid
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningLactococcus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningBifida Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
HumectantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientTheanine
EmollientMilk Lipids
Skin ConditioningGlutathione
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbitan Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Palmitic Acid, Bisabolol, Stearic Acid, Carbomer, Butylene Glycol, Tromethamine, Lactobacillus Ferment, Xanthan Gum, Fructooligosaccharides, Trisodium EDTA, Beta-Glucan, Adenosine, Panthenol, Myristic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Raffinose, Folic Acid, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Bifida Ferment Filtrate, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Theanine, Milk Lipids, Glutathione, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Ethylhexylglycerin
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantGlycereth-26
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningTrehalose
HumectantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingFicus Carica Fruit Extract
HumectantCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil
MaskingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCitrus Nobilis Peel Oil
MaskingLitsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
MaskingBetaine
HumectantOctyldodeceth-16
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Citrate
BufferingLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Ceramide NP
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningLactococcus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningBifida Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
HumectantTheanine
EmollientMilk Lipids
Skin ConditioningGlutathione
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Propanediol, Glycerin, Glycereth-26, 1,2-Hexanediol, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Trehalose, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Betaine, Octyldodeceth-16, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Ceramide NP, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Bifida Ferment Filtrate, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Theanine, Milk Lipids, Glutathione, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Ā
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesĀ
This ingredient is a postbiotic made by fermenting Bifidobacterium (a probiotic bacteria) and then filtering out the liquid portion. It has skin conditioning properties.
Much of the evidence for this ingredient is borrowed from the lysate form of this ingredient, which has a much stronger research base.
This ingredient is generally considered fungal acne (Malassezia) safe; Bifidobacterium is a bacterium, not a yeast or fungus.
The fungal acne concern with fermented ingredients mainly applies to yeast-derived ferments like Saccharomyces and Galactomyces, because those are in the same kingdom as Malassezia and could theoretically contain residual compounds that feed it.
Bifida is a completely different organism, so on its own it doesn't provide a food source for the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about Bifida Ferment FiltrateBifida Ferment Lysate is a postbiotic ingredient made by fermenting Bifidobacterium to extract a nutrient-rich mix of peptides, amino acids, vitamins, organic acids, and polysaccharides.
These components are basically the building blocks that your skin already uses to stay hydrated, repair itself, and maintain its barrier. That's why this ingredient helps your skin hold onto moisture and stay resilient against irritation.
One in-vitro study found that this ingredient tells your skin cells to produce more of the proteins (filaggrin, loricrin, and involucrin) for building a strong and healthy barrier. This study also found this ingredient to be a solid antioxidant that helped neutralize damage against UV and pollution.
A study with people from 2010 found that sensitive, reactive skin using a cream with 10% of this ingredient for a month became noticeably less dry, less reactive, and harder to irritate compared to the group using a plain cream.
In short, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient that can help with barrier repair, antioxidant protection, and calming reactive skin.
This ingredient is generally considered fungal acne (Malassezia) safe; Bifidobacterium is a bacterium, not a yeast or fungus.
The fungal acne concern with fermented ingredients mainly applies to yeast-derived ferments like Saccharomyces and Galactomyces, because those are in the same kingdom as Malassezia and could theoretically contain residual compounds that feed it.
Bifida is a completely different organism, so on its own it doesn't provide a food source for the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about Bifida Ferment LysateButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is derived from an herb native to Southeast Asia. It is famous for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.
Centella is rich in antioxidants and amino acids, such as Madecassic Acid and Asiaticoside.
Studies show the compounds in centella help with:
The combination of all these properties makes centella effective at soothing, hydrating, and protecting the skin.
Other great components of centella include Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and Asiatic Acid.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil comes from the bitter orange, an orange native to Southeast Asia.
This orange is commonly used in cosmetics and food. It is a common ingredient for marmalade.
Citrus peels are often made up of mainly limonene, a fragrance with a citrus scent. They also contain flavonoids, which have anti-inflammatory properties.
Learn more about Citrus Aurantium Dulcis OilMandarin peel oil is an essential oil made by distilling the peel of mandarin oranges. It is primarily used for fragrance but has some secondary skin conditioning effects.
This ingredient is rich in limonene and is generally considered milder than some other citrus oils (like lemon or bergamot). It is not strongly phototoxic because it contains little to no furocoumarins when properly produced.
Like other essential oils, this ingredient can be a fragrance allergen.
Learn more about Citrus Nobilis Peel OilEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinFicus Carica Fruit Extract comes from the fruit known as the fig. Figs are rich in antioxidants and helps hydrate the skin.
Figs also contain fatty acids and Vitamins A, B1, and B2.
As a humectant, figs are able to draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
Learn more about Ficus Carica Fruit ExtractGlutathione is an antioxidant naturally found in our bodies. It is made up of three amino acids: glycine, cysteine, and glutamic acid.
As an antioxidant, it prevents oxidative damage to parts of our cell.
While glutathione is said to help with fading dark spots, the results from research are inconclusive. Further studies are needed. With that said, gluthatione has been shown to protect our skin from UV-B induced damage.
This ingredient is naturally occurring in plants, animals, fungi, and some bacteria.
Learn more about GlutathioneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinThis ingredient is made when the Lactobacillus bacteria (the same kind that makes yogurt and kimchi) are allowed to ferment a nutrient medium.
As it ferments, it collects lactic acid, peptides, enzymes, and other bioactive metabolites to provide:
A 2023 review noted that probiotic fermentation ingredients like this one can enhance antioxidant capacity, reduce UV-induced oxidative damage, and support barrier function.
One clinical study from the same year showed a Lactobacillus ferment lysate significantly reduced transepidermal water loss and improved skin hydration.
Another review highlighted that topical Lactobacillus-based preparations can improve ceramide levels in the stratum corneum, support barrier integrity, and even help reduce S. aureus colonization in atopic dermatitis.
Why is this so cool?
Basically, your skin's outer layer works as a brick wall; skin cells are bricks and ceramides are the mortar holding it together. Moisture escapes, irritants get in, and your skin gets dry and reactive when ceramide levels drop. On top of that, "bad" skin bacteria S. aureus loves to move in when your barrier is weak to make inflammation and irritation worse.
So Lactobacillus ferment is basically patching the wall and evicting the troublemaker when it boosts ceramide production and help keep S. aureus in check.
On top of all this, it also acts as a mild antimicrobial preservative booster.
Just so you know, most studies focus on specific strains or the lysate form rather than this generic "Lactobacillus Ferment", so results can vary.
Though it's a promising ingredient, it doesn't have decades of robust clinical data behind it just yet.
Lactobacillus Ferment is generally considered safe for fungal-acne prone skin. The key thing to understand is that it comes from bacteria, not yeast or fungus.
Yeast-derived ferments (like galactomyces) have been shown to activate a protein that's linked to Malassezia-related skin issues whereas lactobacillus doesn't have that problem.
Its byproducts also don't contain the types of fatty acids (C11-24 chain lengths) that Malassezia feeds on.
Learn more about Lactobacillus FermentLactobacillus Ferment Lysate is a postbiotic with skin soothing properties. Postbiotics are inactive molecules produced by probiotic bacteria that provide skin benefits.
This ingredient comes from the secretion of the bacteria, Lactobacillus.
Studies show this ingredient can help calm redness and may help treat the signs of photoaging; however, the evidence is inconclusive and further studies are needed.
Lactobacillus Ferment is generally considered safe for fungal-acne prone skin. The key thing to understand is that it comes from bacteria, not yeast or fungus.
Yeast-derived ferments (like galactomyces) have been shown to activate a protein that's linked to Malassezia-related skin issues whereas lactobacillus doesn't have that problem.
Its byproducts also don't contain the types of fatty acids (C11-24 chain lengths) that Malassezia feeds on.
Learn more about Lactobacillus Ferment LysateLactococcus Ferment Lysate is a postbiotic created by fermenting Lactoccus lactis, a type of bacteria more commonly used to create Lactic acid.
Postbiotics are inactive molecules produced by probiotic bacteria that provide skin benefits.
This ingredient offers promising benefits, but it is relatively new and more evidence is needed to prove its efficacy. The manufacturer claims this ingredient:
A study from 2022 found this ingredient helped protect skin against damaged from UV exposure (though this should not replace your sunscreen!).
The lysate in the ingredient name refers to a fluid that forms from breaking down the cell membrane.
Learn more about Lactococcus Ferment LysateLitsea Cubeba Fruit Oil is also known as May Chang essential oil. It is mostly used as a fragrance ingredient and has a bright, sweet, and lemony scent.
The main fragrance compounds in this ingredient are citral (~70-85%) and limonene.
Citral has documented antimicrobial activity against acne bacteria (which is where the marketing claims about it being good for acne-prone skin originate), but real formulas use it at fragrance-level concentrations under 1%.
The main thing worth knowing is that citral is a known EU fragrance allergen so people with known fragrance sensitivities may want to skip it.
Unlike citrus oils, May Chang doesn't contain furocoumarins and therefore isn't phototoxic.
Learn more about Litsea Cubeba Fruit OilMilk Lipids isn't fungal acne safe.
Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate is created from fermenting Saccharomyces, a yeast also known as baker's yeast or brewer's yeast.
As a humectant, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate helps draw moisture from the air to your skin to keep your skin hydrated. The humectant properties comes from its beta-glucan content.
Theanine is an amino acid found in plants and fungal species. It helps hydrate the skin as an emollient and humectant.
Both emollients and humectants help hydrate the skin. Emollients prevent moisture from escaping by creating a thin film on top of the skin. Humectants draw water from the air to your skin.
Fun fact: Theanine gives green tea its special umami flavor.
Learn more about TheanineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water