What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingOctyldodecyl Myristate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientParfum
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingPEG-75 Stearate
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeJojoba Esters
EmollientOenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientCeteth-20
CleansingSteareth-20
CleansingHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingBenzoic Acid
MaskingAcmella Oleracea Extract
Skin ProtectingDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeAcacia Decurrens Flower Wax
EmollientPolyglycerin-3
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Glycerin, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Parfum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, PEG-75 Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Jojoba Esters, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Benzoic Acid, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Dehydroacetic Acid, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Polyglycerin-3, Sodium Hydroxide
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingJojoba Esters
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientCaprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningPolymethylsilsesquioxane
Propanediol
SolventTapioca Starch
PEG-75 Stearate
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantArginine
MaskingRosa Damascena Flower Extract
MaskingButylene Glycol
HumectantXylitol
HumectantCryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantSteareth-20
CleansingCeteth-20
CleansingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPolyglycerin-3
HumectantAcacia Decurrens Flower Cera
EmollientAcrylates/Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylhydroxamic Acid
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Parfum
MaskingWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Jojoba Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Caprylyl Methicone, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Propanediol, Tapioca Starch, PEG-75 Stearate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Arginine, Rosa Damascena Flower Extract, Butylene Glycol, Xylitol, Cryptomeria Japonica Bud Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carbomer, Saccharide Isomerate, Steareth-20, Ceteth-20, Xanthan Gum, Polyglycerin-3, Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera, Acrylates/Vinyl Isodecanoate Crosspolymer, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholThis ingredient is a surfactant and emulsifier. It is used to mix water and oil, stabilize emulsions, and aid in cleansing.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax is created from the common sunflower.
Sunflower seed wax is made up of long chain non-glyceride esters, a small amount of fatty alcohols, and fatty acids.
This ingredient is often used to enhance the texture of products. The fatty acid properties also help hydrate the skin.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed WaxJojoba Esters is a wax created from Jojoba oil. It is an emollient and film-forming ingredient. In bead form, it is an exfoliator.
This ingredient has high oxidative stability, meaning it doesn't break down when exposed to oxygen.
Its similarity to our skin's natural oils makes it a great emollient. Emollients help soften and soothe our skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier helps trap moisture in, keeping skin hydrated.
It is created using either the hydrogenation or transesterification processes on jojoba oil.
Learn more about Jojoba EstersParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPEG-75 Stearate isn't fungal acne safe.
Polyglycerin-3 is a 3-unit glycerin polymer.
Like glycerin, this ingredient is a humectant. Humectants help hydrate your skin by drawing water to it.
Having moisturized skin helps improve the skin barrier. Your skin barrier helps protect against irritants and bacteria.
Learn more about Polyglycerin-3Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateSteareth-20 is an emulsifier and solubilizer. It is created from stearyl alcohol with ~20 units of ethylene oxide to give it a strong preference for water.
As an emulsifier, it helps oil-in-water emulsions like lotions, creams, and cleansers stay stable. It also solubilizes small amounts of oil-loving ingredients (like fragrance) into water-based formulas.
You'll likely find this ingredient with steareth-2 (it's oil-loving sister) where the two work together to give products a cushiony feel.
Typical use levels sit at around 1-5% and this ingredient has been found to be non-irritating by the CIR Expert Panel.
Learn more about Steareth-20Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum