What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningOlive Oil PEG-8 Esters
EmollientPropanediol
SolventPEG-8 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
EmulsifyingPropylene Glycol
HumectantBakuchiol
AntimicrobialPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingRetinol
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantOligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingCopernicia Cerifera Cera
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantParfum
MaskingSodium Cocoamphoacetate
Cleansing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientBHT
AntioxidantBHA
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
T-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingWater, Olive Oil PEG-8 Esters, Propanediol, PEG-8 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Propylene Glycol, Bakuchiol, Polysorbate 20, Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Oligopeptide-1, Butylene Glycol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Parfum, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, BHT, BHA, Citric Acid, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, T-Butyl Alcohol
Water
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientDibutyl Adipate
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingIsoamyl Laurate
EmollientLauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialBakuchiol
Antimicrobial1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingEthylcellulose
Hydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant4-T-Butylcyclohexanol
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientParfum
MaskingSodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2
AbsorbentPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingVigna Aconitifolia Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingMaltodextrin
AbsorbentMelatonin
AntioxidantRetinal
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveDisodium EDTA
Phospholipids
Skin ConditioningSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
CI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantT-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningTin Oxide
AbrasiveChrysin
Skin ConditioningWater, Dimethicone, Dibutyl Adipate, Niacinamide, Isoamyl Laurate, Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone, Glycerin, Propanediol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Alcohol Denat., Bakuchiol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylcellulose, Hydroxyacetophenone, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum, Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Vigna Aconitifolia Seed Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Maltodextrin, Melatonin, Retinal, Silica, Disodium EDTA, Phospholipids, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, CI 77891, Ascorbic Acid, T-Butyl Alcohol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Tin Oxide, Chrysin
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.
You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:
1) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV)
2) activate the same genes retinoids do
Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).
The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.
Systematic reviews also back this up:
Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.
The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.
This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.
Learn more about BakuchiolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 is a texture enhancer and pH adjuster.
It is be used to thicken water-based products and create a gel-texture with a velvet feel.
One manufacturer claims this ingredient to have a pH range of 2-8 and to be biodegradable.
This ingredient is also known as Sepimax Zen.
Learn more about Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolT-Butyl Alcohol (aka tert-butanol) is a small, clear, camphor-smelling alcohol.
It has two main jobs:
On the safety side, it's well-studied and has a solid track record. Human repeat-insult patch testing showed no skin irritation or sensitization even at 100%.
Typical use levels are pretty tiny, usually less than 1%.
You might see some fear-mongering around this ingredient:
Studies in male rats showed kidney effects but that's because of a rat-specific protein that humans don't make. So this study isn't really relevant to humans.
Though it's not a typical fragrance like parfum, it does have a natural scent. That's why the official COSIng database lists it as 'perfuming' ingredient. It can be used to modify the scent of a formula.
Learn more about T-Butyl AlcoholTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum