What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningOlive Oil PEG-8 Esters
EmollientPropanediol
SolventPEG-8 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
EmulsifyingPropylene Glycol
HumectantBakuchiol
AntimicrobialPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingRetinol
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantOligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingCopernicia Cerifera Cera
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantParfum
MaskingSodium Cocoamphoacetate
Cleansing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientBHT
AntioxidantBHA
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
T-Butyl Alcohol
PerfumingWater, Olive Oil PEG-8 Esters, Propanediol, PEG-8 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Propylene Glycol, Bakuchiol, Polysorbate 20, Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Oligopeptide-1, Butylene Glycol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Xanthan Gum, Glycerin, Parfum, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, BHT, BHA, Citric Acid, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, T-Butyl Alcohol
Water
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantBoswellia Serrata Resin Extract
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPropanediol
SolventSodium Hydroxide
BufferingMaltodextrin
AbsorbentSucrose Dilaurate
EmollientSodium Cocoyl Glutamate
CleansingPisum Sativum Extract
Skin ConditioningArtemisia Umbelliformis Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Lecithin
EmollientNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTropolone
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningBHT
AntioxidantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantBakuchiol
AntimicrobialGlyceryl Oleate Citrate
EmulsifyingLactic Acid
BufferingGanoderma Lucidum Extract
Skin ProtectingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPolyacrylate-13
Polyisobutene
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialMandelic Acid
AntimicrobialGinkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
AntioxidantWater, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Boswellia Serrata Resin Extract, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Sodium Hydroxide, Maltodextrin, Sucrose Dilaurate, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Pisum Sativum Extract, Artemisia Umbelliformis Extract, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Lecithin, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tropolone, Retinol, BHT, Retinyl Palmitate, Glycine Soja Oil, Tocopherol, Bakuchiol, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Lactic Acid, Ganoderma Lucidum Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Tocopheryl Acetate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Ferulic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.
You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:
1) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV)
2) activate the same genes retinoids do
Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).
The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.
Systematic reviews also back this up:
Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.
The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.
This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.
Learn more about BakuchiolBHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolRetinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolRetinyl palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include tretinoin and retinol.
This particular ingredient has had a bumpy year with its rise and fall in popularity.
First, Retinyl palmitate is created from palmitic acid and retinol. It is a retinol ester and considered one of the weaker forms of retinoid.
This is because all retinoids have to be converted to Tretinoin, AKA retinoic acid. Retinyl Palmitate is pretty far down the line and has to go through multiple conversions before its effects are seen.
Due to this long and ineffective conversion line, the benefits of Retinyl Palmitate are debated.
Studies show Retinyl Palmitate to help:
Dermatologists say this ingredient is ineffective because it isn't used in high enough concentrations in cosmetics.
This ingredient used to be found in sunscreens to boost the efficacy of sunscreen filters.
The downfall of Retinyl Palmitate was due to released reports about the ingredient being correlated to sun damage and skin tumors.
While there is a study showing this ingredient to cause DNA damage when exposed to UV-A, there is no concrete proof of it being linked to skin cancer. It is safe to use when used correctly.
All retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few months of usage. Be especially careful with reapplying sunscreen when using any form of retinoid.
Currently, this ingredient is still allowed in cosmetics all over the world. In Canada, cosmetics must have a warning label stating the product to contain Retinyl Palmitate
Fun fact: This ingredient is often added to low-fat milk to increase the levels of Vitamin A.
Learn more about Retinyl PalmitateTocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water