What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialPropanediol
SolventCera Alba
EmollientRosa Centifolia Flower Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingCetyl Palmitate
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Phytate
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientOryza Sativa Extract
AbsorbentTocopherol
AntioxidantActinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract
EmollientOctyldodecyl Myristate
EmollientFragaria Vesca Fruit Extract
AstringentCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingZea Mays Starch
AbsorbentPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Propanediol, Cera Alba, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetyl Palmitate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Phytate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Extract, Tocopherol, Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Fragaria Vesca Fruit Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Zea Mays Starch, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Sodium Levulinate
Water
Skin ConditioningSesamum Indicum Seed Oil
EmollientPropylheptyl Caprylate
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantOctyldodecyl Myristate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientRhus Verniciflua Peel Wax
Sucrose Polystearate
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
HumectantBetaine
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCera Alba
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientSesamum Indicum Oil Unsaponifiables
EmollientShorea Robusta Seed Butter
EmollientSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingAlpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
CleansingEuphorbia Cerifera Wax
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingOryza Sativa Hull Powder
AbrasiveHydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
EmollientDextrin
AbsorbentHydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingOlea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
Skin ConditioningBetula Alba Bark Extract
MaskingScrophularia Nodosa Extract
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantO-Cymen-5-Ol
AntimicrobialMadecassoside
AntioxidantAsiaticoside
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientHydrolyzed Rice Protein
Skin ConditioningAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningSodium Phytate
Datem
EmollientSunflower Seed Oil Glycerides
EmollientRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialAlcohol
AntimicrobialWater, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Propylene Glycol, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax, Sucrose Polystearate, Dipropylene Glycol, Betaine, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cera Alba, Pentylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Sesamum Indicum Oil Unsaponifiables, Shorea Robusta Seed Butter, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Oryza Sativa Hull Powder, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Dextrin, Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract, Parfum, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Scrophularia Nodosa Extract, Citric Acid, Tocopherol, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycine Soja Oil, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Asiatic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Datem, Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Alcohol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCera alba is beeswax, or the wax used by bees to make honeycombs. It is a texture-enhancer and emollient. A study from 2003 found beeswax to be a stronger emollient than ingredients such as petroleum jelly.
As an emollient, beeswax helps hydrate the skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier traps moisture in.
Emulsifiers help prevent ingredients from separating. This helps create consistent texture.
The structure of beeswax is mainly long-chain alcohols and the esters of fatty acids.
There are three types of beeswax: yellow, white, and absolute. Yellow is pure beeswax taken from the honeycomb. White beeswax is created by filtering or bleaching yellow beeswax. Absolute beeswax is created by treating beeswax with alcohol. Beeswax used in cosmetics are purified.
Beeswax has been used throughout history and even in prehistoric times. Some common uses for beeswax still used today are making candles, as a waterproofing agent, and polish for leather.
Learn more about Cera AlbaCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilWe don't have a description for Octyldodecyl Myristate yet.
Sodium Phytate is the synthetic salt form of phytic acid. Phytic acid is an antioxidant and can be found in plant seeds.
Sodium Phytate is a chelating agent. Chelating agents help prevent metals from binding to water. This helps stabilize the ingredients and the product.
Tocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum