This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingPseudozyma Epicola/Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate
Emulsion StabilisingCamellia Sinensis Seed Oil
HumectantGlucose
HumectantBisabolol
AntioxidantSqualane
EmollientHydrogenated Farnesene
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingC14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Citrate
BufferingC12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventEthoxydiglycol
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientPolyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingLecithin
EmollientSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingPullulan
Hexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingWater, Glycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Propanediol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Pseudozyma Epicola/Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ferment Extract Filtrate, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Glucose, Bisabolol, Squalane, Hydrogenated Farnesene, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, C14-22 Alcohols, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Sodium Citrate, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ethoxydiglycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acacia Senegal Gum, Lecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Pullulan, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Limonene
Water
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantEthoxydiglycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantCitrus Paradisi Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningC12-14 Pareth-12
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantCyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin ConditioningSodium Phytate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingWater, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, C12-14 Pareth-12, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Glycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Cyanocobalamin, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Sodium Phytate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidEthoxydiglycol (aka Diethylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether) is one of the cosmetic world's quiet problem solvers.
In a formula, it is a solvent that dissolves tricky ingredients that don't want to mix in and helps spread ingredients evenly across your skin without leaving a greasy or sticky feeling
This makes it great for hard-to-dissolve actives like vitamin C, benzoyl peroxide, and self-tanner DHA.
It also has mild humectant and penetration enhancer abilities so it can help some actives absorb a little deeper.
The penetration boost is backed by lab research: studies using human skin samples found it improved how well an active dissolves into the upper layer of skin rather than tearing down your skin barrier. Reviews of its mechanism also describe it interacting gently with the lipids and water in your outermost layer of skin.
Just know this penetration-enhancing effect is not universal. It helps a lot in some formulas and did very little in others (so the benefit really depends on the specific product).
Safety-wise, the evidence is reassuring. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel reviewed it and concluded it's safe for use in cosmetics and recognized it as non-irritating, non-sensitizing, and non-comedogenic in skincare.
Typical leave-on skincare usage lands around 1-10%. The EU has sets caps of 2.6% in non-spray products, 10% in rinse-offs, 7% in oxidative hair dye, and 5% in non-oxidative hair dye.
Learn more about EthoxydiglycolEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum