Biossance Squalane + 10% Vitamin C Dark Spot Serum Versus Farmacy Very Cherry Bright 15% Clean Vitamin C Serum with Acerola Cherry
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Squalane to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Squalane
Emollient
Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Bleaching
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Citric Acid
Buffering
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Gluconate
ChelatingSodium Citrate
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Squalane, Lentinus Edodes Mycelium Extract, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
3-Glyceryl Ascorbate
Antioxidant
Prunus Cerasus Fruit Water
Emollient3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Citrate
BufferingPropanediol
Solvent
Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract
Antioxidant
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Antioxidant
Glucomannan
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Humectant
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Humectant
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Masking
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract
Emulsion StabilisingPhysalis Angulata Extract
Skin ProtectingSorbitol
Humectant
Sodium Phytate
ChelatingBiosaccharide Gum-1
Humectant
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningOryza Sativa Bran Extract
Skin Conditioning
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Emollient
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialVanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Caprylate
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glyceryl Ether
CleansingSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingLithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
Buffering
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
ChelatingSodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningSodium Anisate
AntimicrobialSodium Benzoate
Masking
Water, Glycerin, 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate, Prunus Cerasus Fruit Water, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Propanediol, Malpighia Punicifolia Fruit Extract, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Glucomannan, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Allantoin, Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract, Physalis Angulata Extract, Sorbitol, Sodium Phytate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Fruit Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glyceryl Ether, Sclerotium Gum, Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract, Citric Acid, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate, Sodium Benzoate
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Learn more about Citric AcidEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinSodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Learn more about Sodium CitrateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
