What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPotassium Stearate
CleansingPotassium Myristate
EmulsifyingPotassium Palmitate
EmulsifyingPotassium Laurate
EmulsifyingStearic Acid
CleansingMyristic Acid
CleansingPalmitic Acid
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingUric Acid
BufferingHibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCoco-Betaine
CleansingPolyglyceryl-3 Distearate
EmulsifyingSalicylic Acid
MaskingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientSodium Chloride
MaskingMannitol
HumectantPolyquaternium-67
Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate
SurfactantOpuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientMicrocrystalline Cellulose
Absorbent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningGardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSucrose
HumectantDextrin
AbsorbentZea Mays Starch
AbsorbentHydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingArachidic Acid
CleansingCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantSodium Acetate
BufferingOleic Acid
EmollientMineral Salts
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningGaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract
PerfumingCitric Acid
BufferingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Potassium Stearate, Potassium Myristate, Potassium Palmitate, Potassium Laurate, Stearic Acid, Myristic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Niacinamide, Uric Acid, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Coco-Betaine, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Salicylic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Chloride, Mannitol, Polyquaternium-67, Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate, Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Microcrystalline Cellulose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Sucrose, Dextrin, Zea Mays Starch, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Arachidic Acid, CI 77491, Sodium Acetate, Oleic Acid, Mineral Salts, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract, Citric Acid, Allantoin
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantStearic Acid
CleansingMyristic Acid
CleansingPEG-32
HumectantPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingPalmitic Acid
EmollientLauric Acid
CleansingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantLauramide DEA
SurfactantCocamidopropyl Betaine
CleansingPotassium Cocoate
EmulsifyingSalicylic Acid
MaskingSodium Chloride
MaskingArachidic Acid
CleansingLavandula Hybrida Oil
EmollientLinalool
PerfumingDisodium EDTA
Oleic Acid
EmollientLimonene
PerfumingAsiaticoside
AntioxidantAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Myristic Acid, PEG-32, Potassium Hydroxide, Palmitic Acid, Lauric Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Lauramide DEA, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Potassium Cocoate, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Chloride, Arachidic Acid, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Linalool, Disodium EDTA, Oleic Acid, Limonene, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid
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Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Arachidic Acid (also known as Eicosanoic acid) is a fatty acid naturally found in peanut oil, corn oil, or cocoa butter. In cosmetics, it is an emollient, emulsifier, and cleansing ingredient.
Like other fatty acids, it functions as an emollient that helps hydrate and smooth the skin.
As an emulsifier and cleansing agent, it helps stabilize oil-in-water formulations. This also allows oils and other impurities to be easily rinsed away.
Arachidic acid is a natural component of human sebum and research has found that patients with papulopustular rosacea show reduced levels of these fatty acids compared to healthy control groups.
This ingredient may not be safe for fungal acne because it falls within the carbon chain range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Arachidic AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateMyristic Acid, aka tetradecanoic acid, is a naturally occurring fatty acid found in coconut oil and palm oil.
In skincare, it is an:
Research indicates that this ingredient posts a low risk of irritation and sensitization.
Since myristic acid is a C14 fatty acid, it falls within the range that Malassezia can metabolize, and therefore not fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Myristic AcidOleic Acid is an Omega-9 fatty acid that can be found naturally in your skin's sebum and in many plant oils such as avocado and olive oil.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and prevent moisture loss.
Research shows:
A 1998 study did find that applying oleic acid at higher concentrations may cause irritation and disrupt the skin barrier. Modern formulations typically use low levels that is well-tolerated.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Oleic Acid, at C18, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Oleic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
Learn more about Oleic AcidPalmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Learn more about Palmitic AcidSalicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.
Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, itβs still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
Learn more about Salicylic AcidChances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.
You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.
You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.
You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium ChlorideStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water