Alma Secret Facial Sunscreen SPF 50 Versus Institut Esthederm No Sun 100% Mineral Screen Protective Care High Protection Sunscreen
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningZinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventCalendula Officinalis Extract
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantSqualane
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantRubus Idaeus Seed Oil
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientGossypium Herbaceum Callus Culture
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantNiacinamide
SmoothingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAstaxanthin
Skin ConditioningLeontopodium Alpinum Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPunica Granatum Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingStearic Acid
CleansingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Chloride
MaskingSilica
AbrasivePotassium Sorbate
PreservativeDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeAroma
Alcohol
AntimicrobialBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Zinc Oxide, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Propanediol, Calendula Officinalis Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Titanium Dioxide, Squalane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Gossypium Herbaceum Callus Culture, Hyaluronic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Astaxanthin, Leontopodium Alpinum Flower Extract, Water, Tocopherol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Punica Granatum Flower Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Stearic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Chloride, Silica, Potassium Sorbate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Aroma, Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol
Cyclopentasiloxane
EmollientWater
Skin ConditioningZinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientAluminum Hydroxide
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingSodium Chloride
MaskingTriethoxycaprylylsilane
Creatine
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhetinic Acid
Skin ConditioningMannitol
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Dextran Sulfate
Gel FormingHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantHydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePropylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientArtemia Extract
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCarnosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium Adenosine Triphosphate
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantLaminaria Digitata Extract
Skin ProtectingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeCyclopentasiloxane, Water, Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Sodium Chloride, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Creatine, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Mannitol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Phenoxyethanol, Propylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Artemia Extract, Xanthan Gum, Carnosine, Disodium Adenosine Triphosphate, Tocopherol, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Potassium Sorbate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbateChances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.
You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.
You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.
You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium ChlorideStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidTitanium dioxide is a mineral UV filter widely used in sunscreens and cosmetics.
It is one of only two UV filters officially classified as “mineral” by regulatory agencies, the other being zinc oxide.
Titanium dioxide provides broad-spectrum protection mostly in the UVB and UVAII range, with some protection in the UVAI range.
While its UVA protection isn’t as strong as zinc oxide’s, the difference is minor.
A common myth is that mineral UV filters reflect UV light. However, modern research shows titanium dioxide absorbs UV radiation like chemical filters (~95% absorption & 5% reflection).
Thanks to its non-irritating nature, titanium dioxide is suitable for sensitive, acne-prone, or redness-prone skin. It is unlikely to cause "eye sting" like other sunscreen ingredients.
A major drawback of this ingredient is its white cast and thick texture. This is why mineral sunscreens often leave a white cast and are less cosmetically elegant than chemical/hybrid sunscreens.
To improve white cast and spreadability, micronized or nano-sized titanium dioxide is often used.
There are ongoing concerns surrounding nano-titanium oxide's impact on marine ecosystems.
There is no conclusive evidence that any form of titanium oxide (or any other sunscreen ingredients) will cause harm to marine ecosystems or coral reefs. The science is still developing but many consumers are keeping a close eye on this issue.
Please note, many destinations have reef-safety sunscreen rules. For instance, the U.S. Virgin Islands advises all visitors to use non-nano mineral sunscreens.
Nano mineral sunscreens once raised safety concerns about absorption into skin.
Extensive research has shown that they do not penetrate healthy or damaged skin; they remain safely on the surface and the top layer of dead skin (stratum corneum).
You'll likely find titanium dioxide bundled with alumina, silica, or dimethicone. These ingredients help make titanium dioxide highly photostable; this prevents it from interacting with other formula components under UV light.
Learn more about Titanium DioxideTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan GumZinc Oxide is a mineral broad-spectrum UV filter; it is the broadest UVA and UVB reflector approved by the FDA. It also has skin protectant and skin soothing properties.
Zinc oxide is one of the most effective broad-spectrum UV filters. It protects against UVB, UVAII, and UVAI. In comparison to its counterpart titanium dioxide, zinc oxide provides uniform and extended UVA protection.
Another great benefit? This ingredient is highly photostable so it won't degrade easily under sunlight.
A common myth is that mineral UV filters are widely believed to primarily reflect UV light.
However, modern research shows titanium dioxide absorbs UV radiation like chemical filters (~95% absorption & 5% reflection).
Zinc oxide has great skin soothing properties so you'll likely find this in sunscreens formulated for sensitive skin or babies/children. It is unlikely to cause "eye sting" like other sunscreen ingredients.
Regulatory agencies consider zinc oxide to be non-toxic and safe. It has also been shown to not penetrate the skin.
Unfortunately, this ingredient does leave a visible white cast. This is why mineral sunscreens are often less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid ones.
In cosmetics, zinc oxide can be found in both non-nano and nano-sized forms. The nano version is used to reduce white cast and improve the texture of sunscreen formulas.
There are ongoing concerns surrounding nano-zinc oxide's impact on marine ecosystems and whether it can be absorbed into skin.
Regarding marine ecosystems and coral reefs, there is no conclusive evidence that any form of zinc oxide (or any other sunscreen ingredients) will cause harm. The science is still developing but many consumers are keeping a close eye on this issue.
Please note, many destinations have reef-safety sunscreen rules. For instance, the U.S. Virgin Islands advises all visitors to use non-nano mineral sunscreens.
There has also been some stir about whether micronized or nano zinc oxide has potential photoxicity and absorption through the skin/lungs.
An in-vitro (done in a test tube or petri dish) study demonstrated micronized zinc oxide to have potential phototoxicity. There's no need to fret; the EU Commission's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has stated, "The relevance of these findings needs to be clarified by appropriate investigations in vivo." Or in other words, further studies done on living organisms are needed to prove this.
Current research shows zinc oxide nanoparticles do not penetrate intact or sunburned skin. They either remain on the surface or in the outermost layer of dead skin (stratum corneum).
Zinc oxide is one of only two classified mineral UV filters with titanium dioxide being the other one.
Fun fact: Zinc has been used throughout history as an ingredient in paint and medicine. An Indian text from 500BC is believed to list zinc oxide as a salve for open wound. The Ancient Greek physician Dioscorides has also mentioned the use of zinc as an ointment in 1AD.
Learn more about Zinc Oxide