What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Betula Alba Juice
AstringentWater
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
Solvent
Tromethamine
BufferingGlycolic Acid
Buffering
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Glycereth-26
Humectant
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Glycerin
Humectant
Cyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Beeswax
Emulsion Stabilising
Dimethicone
Emollient
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Cyclohexasiloxane
Emollient
Sorbitan Stearate
Emulsifying
PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether
StabilisingGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Salicylic Acid
Masking
Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPEG-100 Stearate
Isohexadecane
EmollientPEG-2m
Emulsion StabilisingHydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Sucrose Distearate
Emollient
Polysorbate 80
Emulsifying
Adenosine
Skin Conditioning
Sorbitan Oleate
Emulsifying
Disodium EDTA
Pantolactone
Humectant
Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningAlchemilla Vulgaris Extract
AstringentArnica Montana Flower Extract
Masking
Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract
EmollientPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract
Perfuming
Betula Alba Juice, Water, Propanediol, Tromethamine, Glycolic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycereth-26, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Beeswax, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 60, Cyclohexasiloxane, Sorbitan Stearate, PEG-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Glyceryl Stearate, Panthenol, Salicylic Acid, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, PEG-100 Stearate, Isohexadecane, PEG-2m, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Allantoin, Sucrose Distearate, Polysorbate 80, Adenosine, Sorbitan Oleate, Disodium EDTA, Pantolactone, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Ananas Sativus Fruit Extract, Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Actinidia Chinensis Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Gaultheria Procumbens Leaf Extract
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycolic Acid
Buffering
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Sodium Benzoate
Masking
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin Conditioning
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Ammonium Hydroxide
BufferingCyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Bisabolol
Antioxidant
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Water, Glycolic Acid, Stearic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Glycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Cetyl Alcohol, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Polysorbate 60, Ammonium Hydroxide, Cyclopentasiloxane, Bisabolol, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCyclopentasiloxane, or D5, is a silicone used to improve texture of products and trap moisture.
D5 is considered lightweight and volatile. Volatile means it evaporates quickly after application. Once evaporated, D5 leaves a thin barrier that helps keep skin hydrated.
It is also an emollient. Emollients help soften the skin and prevent water loss. Silicones create a silky texture in products. D5 helps other ingredients become more spreadable.
Studies show D5 is safe to use in skincare products. We recommend speaking with a skincare professional if you have concerns.
Learn more about CyclopentasiloxaneDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.
It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.
Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.
AHAs work by breaking down the structural “glue” that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.
Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.
Overall, glycolic acid helps with:
Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.
To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (that’s where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).
The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:
It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.
Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.
If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.
Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But don’t skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.
Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless you’re highly sensitive, it’s well worth adding to your routine.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Glycolic AcidPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Learn more about Polysorbate 60Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
