What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters
Emulsifying
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Cetearyl Isononanoate
Emollient
Propanediol
Solvent
Glycerin
Humectant
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Polyacrylamide
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Emollient
Laureth-7
EmulsifyingRosa Canina Fruit Oil
Emollient
Ceramide AP
Skin Conditioning
Hydrolyzed Silk
Humectant
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Propanediol, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Ceramide AP, Hydrolyzed Silk, Panthenol, Phenoxyethanol
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
Humectant
Trisiloxane
Skin Conditioning
Petrolatum
Emollient
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Masking
Glycerin
Humectant
PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate
Emollient
C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters
Emulsifying
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Laureth-7
EmulsifyingC13-14 Isoparaffin
Emollient
Polyacrylamide
Beeswax
Emulsion Stabilising
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Masking
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
Masking
Cymbopogon Citratus Leaf/Stem Oil
Masking
Ethylene Brassylate
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Hexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingLavandula Hybrida Oil
Emollient
Linalool
Perfuming
Linalyl Acetate
Masking
Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
Perfuming
Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
Masking
Malic Acid
Buffering
Octanal
Perfuming
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Masking
PEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant
Persea Gratissima Oil
Skin Conditioning
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Phoenix Dactylifera Fruit Extract
EmollientPhytosphingosine
Skin Conditioning
Phytosterols
Skin Conditioning
Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
Quercetin
Antioxidant
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Emollient
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingWater, Butylene Glycol, Trisiloxane, Petrolatum, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Glycerin, PPG-2 Myristyl Ether Propionate, C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Laureth-7, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Polyacrylamide, Beeswax, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Cymbopogon Citratus Leaf/Stem Oil, Ethylene Brassylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Hexylene Glycol, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Linalool, Linalyl Acetate, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Malic Acid, Octanal, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, PEG-100 Stearate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Phoenix Dactylifera Fruit Extract, Phytosphingosine, Phytosterols, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Quercetin, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
C10-30 Cholesterol/Lanosterol Esters isn't fungal acne safe.
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateC13-14 Isoparaffin is a synthetic emollient, solvent, and thickening agent. It helps soften skin and improves spreadability without leaving a greasy residue.
This ingredient has been found to be non-sensitizing and safe for use in cosmetics.
Two things floating around online that cause fear-mongering:
There's one scary-sounding study related to kidney tumors in male rats; this depends on a protein called alpha-2u-globulin that binds the ingredient and clogs up kidney cells. Female rats barely make this protein, and humans don't make it at all so this effect cannot happen to us. Regulatory bodies have states this rat-only pathway shouldn't be used to judge human risk.
The other thing you'll see is 1,4-dioxane being a trace byproduct that can form during manufacturing of petroleum-derived ingredients. This is a real, but heavily managed/monitored issue. This byproduct is removed through purification steps before the ingredients goes into the formula. Regulatory bodies also actively monitor residual levels for safety.
One last thing to note: this ingredient is a pure hydrocarbon with no fatty-acid or ester chains for Malassezia to feed on, so it's considered fungal acne safe.
Learn more about C13-14 IsoparaffinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLaureth-7 is created by the ethoxylation of lauryl alcohol using ethylene oxide. Lauryl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with hydrating properties.
This ingredient is an emulsifier and cleansing ingredient. As an emulsifier, it is used to prevent ingredients from separating. It also helps cleanse the skin by gathering dirt, oil, and pollutants to be rinsed away.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polyacrylamide is a synthetic polymer. It is used to stabilize products and bind ingredients. When hydrated, Polyacrylamide forms a soft gel.
Polyacrylamide is low-toxicity. If source properly, it is deemed safe to use in cosmetics.
It should be noted the precursor to Polyacrylamide is acrylamide. Acrylamide is a carcinogen. Most reputable sources of Polyacrylamide will screen for residual acrylamide to make sure the count is in a safe range. Acrylamide is not able to be absorbed through the skin.
We recommend speaking with a professional if you have concerns.
Learn more about PolyacrylamideRosa Canina Fruit Oil is a non-fragrant plant oil that has earned its skincare reputation through chemistry.
It's dominated by fatty acids like linoleic acid (~35-55%), alpha-linolenic acid (~17-27%), and oleic acid (~14-22%). This is the exact profile that supports skin barrier, locks in hydration, and calms inflammation.
A 2024 review found evidence for the Rosa canina species supports its use for scarring, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and atopic dermatitis; this was mostly credited to its vitamin C content and fatty acid composition as the primary active mechanisms.
You might see this ingredient marketed as a "natural retinol". Some rosehip seed oils contains traces of all-trans-retinoic acid but these trace amounts are far below biologically active levels.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel has deemed this ingredient safe and it's well-tolerated.
Fungal acne: The fatty acids of this oil fall into the C11-24 range that Malassezia yeast can metabolize, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Rosa Canina Fruit OilWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
