What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingSorbitan Sesquioleate
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantJasminum Officinale Flower Extract
MaskingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingLimonium Gerberi Extract
Skin ProtectingLavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
CleansingZingiber Officinale Root Extract
MaskingSymphytum Officinale Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeParfum
MaskingCaramel
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCI 16035
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Isopropyl Palmitate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Sorbitan Sesquioleate, Polysorbate 60, Carbomer, Sodium Hydroxide, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Limonium Gerberi Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Symphytum Officinale Leaf Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Parfum, Caramel, CI 42090, CI 16035
Water
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantStearic Acid
CleansingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingBorago Officinalis Seed Oil
EmollientPelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
MaskingAchillea Millefolium Oil
CleansingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSalvia Sclarea Oil
MaskingPogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil
MaskingLavandula Angustifolia Flower Oil
MaskingBoswellia Serrata Oil
MaskingDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeBisabolol
AntioxidantAnthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
MaskingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantCommiphora Myrrha Oil
MaskingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingBenzoic Acid
MaskingSorbic Acid
PreservativeTocopherol
AntioxidantRosa Damascena Flower Oil
MaskingCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingWater, Glyceryl Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Achillea Millefolium Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Salvia Sclarea Oil, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Oil, Boswellia Serrata Oil, Dehydroacetic Acid, Bisabolol, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Commiphora Myrrha Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Benzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol with several roles: it's a preservative, solvent, and mild fragrance component with a floral scent.
This ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%, and up to 10% in hair dyes. You'll typically see 0.5-2% in most rinse-off or leave-on products.
As a preservative, it works by disrupting the membrane of microbial proteins. This helps keep bacteria and fungi from growing in your products.
The sensitization picture is actually quite assuring as well:of nearly 71,000 patients patch tested with benzyl alcohol, only 0.21% showed a positive reaction with most of them being weakly positive.
This led researchers to conclude that benzyl alcohol cannot be regarded as a significant contact allergen.
It is worth noting this ingredient is classified as one of the EU's regulated fragrance allergens and restricted to 1% in finished products.
Labels must also declare it in concentrations above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
At concentrations around 5%, localized redness and itching can appear as a direct irritant response and not as a true allergic reaction.
Learn more about Benzyl AlcoholThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholDehydroacetic Acid is a synthetic preservative that keeps your products safe from microbes.
As an organic acid, it penetrates microbial cell walls and disrupts cellular metabolism. This makes it effective against bacteria, yeast, and mold.
It is effective at low concentrations (<0.6%). Clinical studies have found it to be non-irritating, non-sensitizing, and non-photosensitizing.
Learn more about Dehydroacetic AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water