SkinCeuticals P-Tiox Wrinkle-Modulating Peptide Cream Versus Calecim Professional Restorative Hydration Cream
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Glycoproteins to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningIsododecane
EmollientC14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingVinyldimethicone
Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingC12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingNymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningC12-16 Alcohols
EmollientTromethamine
BufferingPsidium Guajava Fruit Extract
AstringentCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialAllium Sativum Bulb Extract
Skin ConditioningZinc PCA
HumectantCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingPsidium Guajava Leaf Extract
AstringentLuffa Cylindrica Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPalmitic Acid
EmollientCetyl Palmitate
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningDipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingCitric Acid
BufferingPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10
Skin ConditioningWater, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Isododecane, C14-22 Alcohols, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Vinyldimethicone, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate Se, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C12-16 Alcohols, Tromethamine, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Allium Sativum Bulb Extract, Zinc PCA, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Psidium Guajava Leaf Extract, Luffa Cylindrica Fruit Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitic Acid, Cetyl Palmitate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Sorbitan Stearate, Polysorbate 80, Tocopherol, Ceramide NP, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Sodium Benzoate, Citric Acid, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10
Water
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningOleic Acid
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycoproteins
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientLinoleic Acid
CleansingSoluble Collagen
HumectantPEG-40 Stearate
EmulsifyingPalmitic Acid
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingSerum Albumin
HumectantStearic Acid
CleansingFibronectin
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantParfum
MaskingPotassium Lactate
BufferingDisodium EDTA
ChelatingHyaluronic Acid
HumectantLactic Acid
BufferingLimonene
PerfumingCitric Acid
BufferingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingWater, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Oleic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycoproteins, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Linoleic Acid, Soluble Collagen, PEG-40 Stearate, Palmitic Acid, Ceteareth-20, Serum Albumin, Stearic Acid, Fibronectin, Tocopherol, Parfum, Potassium Lactate, Disodium EDTA, Hyaluronic Acid, Lactic Acid, Limonene, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Learn more about Citric AcidPalmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
This ingredient does have a comedogenic rating of 2, but this doesn't mean a formula with this ingredient will clog pores.
Human testing has proved that any finished product with a comedogenic ingredient won't automatically make you break out; it really comes down to concentration, formula, and your skin.
Learn more about Palmitic AcidSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water