What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientPolyisobutene
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientBis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
EmollientHydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer
Cera Microcristallina
Emulsion StabilisingEthylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Aroma
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantPrunus Avium Seed Oil
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientButylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Tribehenin
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingAluminum Hydroxide
EmollientLactic Acid
BufferingAnthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
MaskingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCitral
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantHydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyisobutene, Diisostearyl Malate, Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Styrene/Isoprene Copolymer, Cera Microcristallina, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Aroma, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Prunus Avium Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Squalane, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Tribehenin, Tocopherol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Lactic Acid, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Citral, Linalool, Limonene, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 15850
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingCera Alba
EmollientEthylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Vp/Eicosene Copolymer
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientButylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin ConditioningAtelocollagen
Skin ConditioningMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientMentha Piperita Oil
MaskingTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPortulaca Pilosa Extract
Skin ConditioningLactic Acid
BufferingVanillyl Butyl Ether
MaskingPentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
EmollientCetearyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientSilica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientSodium Chondroitin Sulfate
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingSucrose Cocoate
EmulsifyingTribehenin
EmollientMenthoxypropanediol
MaskingButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingPropylene Glycol
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantAroma
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Cera Alba, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Atelocollagen, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Mentha Piperita Oil, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Portulaca Pilosa Extract, Lactic Acid, Vanillyl Butyl Ether, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sucrose Cocoate, Tribehenin, Menthoxypropanediol, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Limonene, Linalool, Propylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Aroma
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Aroma refers to an ingredient, or mixture of ingredients, that impart or mask a flavor.
The name is slightly confusing. This is because INCI associates aroma with flavor instead of smell.
Here is the official definition from the The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook:
âAroma is a term for ingredient labeling used to identify that a product contains a material or combination of materials normally added to a cosmetic to produce or to mask a particular flavor.â
INCI shows the only purpose of aroma to be "flavouring".
However, due to regulation differences, some companies may use aroma in place of parfum.
In Canada, this ingredient only has to be listed in concentrations above 1%.
Learn more about AromaThis ingredient is a high-molecular weight synthetic polymer. It is used to modify the viscosity of a formula, improve slip, and create a more "cushiony" texture.
Due to its large molecular size, this ingredient is not absorbed into the skin.
This is a synthetic polymer used to thicken formulas, improve texture, and enhance spreadability.
Due to its large molecule size, this ingredient does not penetrate the skin and is considered well-tolerated.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid.
In cosmetics, it plays many roles:
One thing worth noting: a controlled study found this ingredient applied under occlusion to acne-prone subjects increased microcomedones. Just keep in mind this was under occlusive conditions and don't reflect how most products are used day-to-day.
For most people, this is a well-tolerated and lightweight ingredient.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it is an ester of palmitic acid, a C16 fatty acid that falls within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateHydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
Learn more about Hydrogenated PolyisobuteneLactic Acid is another well-loved alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is gentler than glycolic acid but still highly effective.
Its main role is to exfoliate the surface of the skin by loosening the âglueâ that holds dead skin cells together. Shedding those old cells leads to smoother, softer, and more even-toned skin.
Because lactic acid molecules are larger than glycolic acid, they donât penetrate as deeply. This means theyâre less likely to sting or irritate, making it a great choice for beginners or those with sensitive skin.
Like glycolic acid, it can:
Lactic acid also acts as a humectant (like hyaluronic acid). It can draw water into the skin to improve hydration and also plays a role in the skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF) in the form of sodium lactate.
Studies show it can boost ceramide production to strengthen the skin barrier and even help balance the skinâs microbiome.
To get results, choose products with a pH between 3-4.
Lower strengths (5-12%) focus on surface exfoliation; higher strengths (12% and up) can reach deeper in the dermis (deeper, supportive layer) to improve skin texture and firmness over time.
Though it was originally derived from milk, most modern lactic acid used in skincare is vegan. It is made through non-dairy fermentation to create a bio-identical and stable form suitable for all formulations.
When lactic acid shows up near the end of an ingredient list, it usually means the brand added just a tiny amount to adjust the productâs pH.
Legend has it that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to help reduce wrinkles.
Lactic acid is truly a gentle multitasker: it exfoliates, hydrates, strengthens, and brightens. It's a great ingredient for giving your skin a smooth, glowing, and healthy look without the harshness of stronger acids.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Lactic AcidLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.
It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.
This ingredient is oil-soluble.
Learn more about Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl HydroxyhydrocinnamateSorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateTribehenin is the triglyceride of glycerin and behenic acid. It is an emollient that helps soften and condition skin.
Safety-wise, this is a well-vetted ingredient. Repeated-insult patch tests of 0.38% tribehenin did not trigger sensitization.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because behenic acid falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia yeasts can feed on.
Learn more about Tribehenin