What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Polyisobutene
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
EmollientBis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
EmollientDiisostearyl Malate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingC18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate
EmollientAvena Sativa Kernel Oil
Skin ConditioningJojoba Esters
EmollientLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningTrihydroxystearin
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCalcium Sodium Borosilicate
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientTribehenin
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantAlaria Esculenta Extract
Skin ProtectingTin Oxide
AbrasiveSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingLactic Acid
BufferingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantPolyisobutene, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Diisostearyl Malate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C18-38 Alkyl Hydroxystearoyl Stearate, Avena Sativa Kernel Oil, Jojoba Esters, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Trihydroxystearin, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Octyldodecanol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Tribehenin, Tocopherol, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Tin Oxide, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lactic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, CI 77891, CI 77492, CI 15850, CI 45410
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientHydrogenated Castor Oil
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientHydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate
EmollientSqualane
EmollientMangifera Indica Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningPrunus Avium Seed Oil
EmollientRubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract
AstringentCopernicia Cerifera Wax
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
EmollientPolyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate
EmulsifyingAroma
Glycerin
HumectantWater
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningCitral
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingRicinus Communis Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Squalane, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Prunus Avium Seed Oil, Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate, Aroma, Glycerin, Water, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Citral, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, itâs technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term âoil-freeâ isnât regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about Squalane