What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningMethylpropanediol
SolventDipropylene Glycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningLaminaria Japonica Extract
Skin ProtectingDisodium EDTA
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantEclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningMethyl Diisopropyl Propionamide
MaskingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingOctyldodeceth-16
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTromethamine
BufferingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingFructooligosaccharides
HumectantMonarda Didyma Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPolygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
AntioxidantScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialUlmus Davidiana Root Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientViola Mandshurica Flower Extract
AntioxidantDioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingCetraria Islandica Extract
CleansingWater, Methylpropanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Adenosine, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Disodium EDTA, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Methyl Diisopropyl Propionamide, Carbomer, Octyldodeceth-16, Xanthan Gum, Tromethamine, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Fructooligosaccharides, Monarda Didyma Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Beta-Glucan, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Viola Mandshurica Flower Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Cetraria Islandica Extract
Water
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningMethylpropanediol
SolventNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantThiamine Hcl
MaskingRiboflavin
Cosmetic ColorantNiacin
SmoothingCarnitine Hcl
HumectantPantothenic Acid
Skin ConditioningBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicFolic Acid
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantCyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Linoleate
EmollientGlyceryl Linolenate
EmollientGlyceryl Arachidonate
EmollientOpuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningTrehalose
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantDisodium EDTA
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantWater, Panthenol, Methylpropanediol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Thiamine Hcl, Riboflavin, Niacin, Carnitine Hcl, Pantothenic Acid, Biotin, Folic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Cyanocobalamin, Glyceryl Linoleate, Glyceryl Linolenate, Glyceryl Arachidonate, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Trehalose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arginine, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium EDTA, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneMethylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.
As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.
Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.
Learn more about MethylpropanediolPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum