What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventDipropylene Glycol
HumectantNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantBetaine
HumectantDiglycerin
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
MaskingPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningTrehalose
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingRosa Damascena Flower Water
MaskingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPyrus Communis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Pantolactone
HumectantHedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract
AntimicrobialHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientLinum Usitatissimum Seed Extract
PerfumingBambusa Vulgaris Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningTremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide
Emulsion StabilisingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingVitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningDiospyros Kaki Leaf Extract
Skin ProtectingPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningPolygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
AntioxidantCoffea Arabica Seed Extract
MaskingCarthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningZanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCastanea Crenata Shell Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPantothenic Acid
Skin ConditioningMangifera Indica Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantTripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Betaine, Diglycerin, Carbomer, Arginine, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Trehalose, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Adenosine, Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract, Disodium EDTA, Pantolactone, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf Extract, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract, Phytosterols, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Castanea Crenata Shell Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Pantothenic Acid, Mangifera Indica Fruit Extract, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Ceramide NP, Retinol, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tripeptide-1, Copper Tripeptide-1
Water
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningBetaine Salicylate
AntimicrobialBetaine
HumectantHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantTromethamine
BufferingOctyldodeceth-16
EmulsifyingSodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Papain
Skin ConditioningPogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil
MaskingJuniperus Virginiana Oil
MaskingCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingArtemisia Vulgaris Oil
PerfumingBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningMentha Arvensis Leaf Oil
MaskingWater, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine Salicylate, Betaine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tromethamine, Octyldodeceth-16, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Papain, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Artemisia Vulgaris Oil, Beta-Glucan, Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Learn more about BetaineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCapryloyl Salicylic Acid comes from salicylic acid, the famous acne-fighting BHA.
It usually goes by a more common name of LHA, or lipohydroxy acid.
Like salicylic acid, this ingredient is a chemical exfoliant that can help break down the oil in your pores and reduce inflammation.
Though studies for LHA do show it to be less effective than salicylic acid. To be fair, salicylic acid is the reigning monarch of acne treatments.
However, a study from 2009 found LHA to be comparable to BPO, making it a good alternative for people with sensitive skin. Another study of 14 patients found a significant decrease in comedones after using LHA.
Another pro of LHA? It is less irritating than salicylic acid due to its large molecule size.
Large molecules cannot penetrate skin as well, so they are gentler on the skin. LHA is much less penetrative than salicylic acid.
An in-vitro study (not done on a living organism) found only 6% of LHA penetrated past the statum corneum compared to 58% of salicylic acid. An in-vivo (done on a living organism) analysis revealed ~17% of LHA was still present in the top layer of skin after 4 days, versus ~9% of salicylic acid.
Interestingly, a study from 2008 found LHA comparable to another famous acid, glycolic acid.
This study found about 10% of LHA is as effective as 20-50% of glycolic acid in treating hyperpigmentation and fine-lines.
Hydroxy acids have been found to stimulate skin protein, lipids, and thermal thickening. This may have anti-aging benefits.
Learn more about Capryloyl Salicylic AcidDipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Learn more about Dipropylene GlycolDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water