Make p:rem Idebenone Lifting Ampoule Versus Mary & May Idebenone + Blackberry Complex Serum

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

The headline claim comes from a 2005 study that ranked Idebenone's oxidative-stress protection against five popular antioxidants (Vitamin C, Vitamin E, CoQ10, Kinetin, and Alpha Lipoic Acid). This study found it performed strongly in their testing model.

A companion six-week clinical trial on 41 women with moderately photodamaged skin found a 1% Idebenone formula showed a 26% reduction in skin roughness and dryness, a 37% increase in hydration, a 29% reduction in fine-lines/wrinkles, and a 33% improvement in overall photodamage. One thing worth noting about this study is that there was no vehicle control so not all benefits can be pinned on idebenone alone.

Typical usage for this ingredient sits between 0.5-1% (both concentrations validated in clinical work).

On the safety side, Idebenone is well tolerated by most people. There are a handful of documented allergic contact dermatitis in individual users so be sure to patch test if you have sensitive or reactive skin.