What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantMethyl Gluceth-20
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantPPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24
EmulsifyingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientAllantoin
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentHydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingDisodium EDTA
Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12
Skin ConditioningLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingPaeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Skin ProtectingAnthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
MaskingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantSqualane
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Gluceth-20, Dipropylene Glycol, PPG-13-Decyltetradeceth-24, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Allantoin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Maltodextrin, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Adenosine, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Disodium EDTA, Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Squalane, Tocopherol
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycereth-26
HumectantHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientButylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantPEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
EmulsifyingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolyacrylate-13
Cetyl Alcohol
EmollientCollagen Extract
Skin ConditioningAvena Sativa Peptide
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantMethyl Glucose Sesquistearate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPalmitic Acid
EmollientTromethamine
BufferingStearic Acid
CleansingGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Juniperus Mexicana Oil
MaskingPyrus Communis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningRosa Damascena Flower Water
MaskingIris Florentina Root Extract
MaskingRosa Damascena Flower Oil
MaskingBetaine
HumectantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantCucumis Melo Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract
AntimicrobialCoccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCorallina Officinalis Extract
Skin ConditioningPogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil
MaskingVetiveria Zizanoides Root Oil
MaskingWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycereth-26, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Glycerin, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyacrylate-13, Cetyl Alcohol, Collagen Extract, Avena Sativa Peptide, Dipropylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Glyceryl Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Dimethicone, Caprylyl Glycol, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Carbomer, Palmitic Acid, Tromethamine, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Sorbitan Isostearate, Adenosine, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Juniperus Mexicana Oil, Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Betaine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Vetiveria Zizanoides Root Oil
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolDipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Learn more about Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateDipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Learn more about Dipropylene GlycolDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water