This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinol and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPropanediol
SolventPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Retinoate
AntioxidantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Retinol
Skin ConditioningSodium Retinoyl Hyaluronate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-2
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantArachis Hypogaea Oil
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentPolygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
AntioxidantGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingCalcium Sodium Borosilicate
Silver Oxide
AntimicrobialWater, Glycerin, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Tocopheryl Retinoate, Retinyl Palmitate, Hydrogenated Retinol, Sodium Retinoyl Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer-2, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Arachis Hypogaea Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Centella Asiatica Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Xanthan Gum, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Polysorbate 20, Carbomer, Potassium Hydroxide, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate, Silver Oxide
Cyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCaprylyl Methicone
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialUndecane
EmollientDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningTrisiloxane
Skin ConditioningPEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
SmoothingTridecane
PerfumingSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantPEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer
Bisabolol
AntioxidantRetinol
Skin ConditioningHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSilica Silylate
EmollientZea Mays Starch
AbsorbentTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantMethyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer
Phenylpropanol
MaskingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPropanediol
SolventSilica
AbrasiveDimethicone
EmollientPropyl Gallate
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
BHT
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantCyclopentasiloxane, Caprylyl Methicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Undecane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Pentylene Glycol, Trisiloxane, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Niacinamide, Tridecane, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone/PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Bisabolol, Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Silica Silylate, Zea Mays Starch, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Phenylpropanol, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, Propanediol, Silica, Dimethicone, Propyl Gallate, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Tocopherol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (aka Granactive Retinoid or HPR) is a retinoid that is part of the same vitamin A family as retinol.
It is an ester of retinoic acid that binds directly to your skin's retinoic acid receptors so it doesn't need your skin to convert it through several steps before it can do anything.
In practice, this means it does the classic retinoid jobs in a formula:
The best part is that it can do all this with noticeably less redness, flaking, and stinging than traditional retinoids.
That gentle reputation is backed by lab work as well; a 2018 study on skin models found that HPR triggered higher retinoid-gene activity than retinol, retinal, or retinyl propionate at the same concentrations while being less irritating to cells.
It also boosted procollagen production to levels similar to retinoic acid itself.
A 2023 study showed HPR works synergistically with retinyl propionate to switch on collagen-building pathways and a 2025 clinical serum study in women with mild photoaging saw improvements in wrinkles and elasticity (though that formula also contained retinol, peptides, and Silybin).
One naming quirk worth mentioning:
You'll likely see this ingredient sold under the trade name "Granactive Retinoid", which is actually only 10% HPR blended with 90% Dimethyl Isosorbide solvent. This means a 5% Granactive Retinoid really only means about 0.5% HPR.
Finished products typically land somewhere between 0.05-1% and it's happiest formulated at a mildly acidic to neutral pH (~5.5-6.5).
Another perk is that this is one of the more light- and temperature-stable retinoids which is a nice bonus for shelf life.
Learn more about Hydroxypinacolone RetinoatePentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolRetinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).
It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.
That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.
Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.
Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.
Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.
Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.
The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.
Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.
In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:
That last two are worth a closer look.
A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.
Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.
So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).
It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.
The research backs this up as well.
A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.
Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).
Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.
One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.
It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.
Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.
This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.
Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.
The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.
Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.
Learn more about RetinolTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about Tocopherol