What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPEG-8
HumectantMyristic Acid
Cleansing
Glycerin
Humectant
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Potassium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
Cleansing
Palmitic Acid
Emollient
Lauric Acid
Cleansing
PEG-32
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient
PEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Limonene
Perfuming
Arachidic Acid
Cleansing
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
Antioxidant
Disodium EDTA
Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPolyquaternium-7
Oleic Acid
Emollient
Centella Asiatica Extract
Cleansing
Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Paradisi Peel Oil
Masking
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin Conditioning
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Perfuming
Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract
CleansingCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Masking
Sodium Benzoate
Masking
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Masking
Linalool
Perfuming
C12-13 Pareth-9
EmulsifyingPiroctone Olamine
Preservative
Water, PEG-8, Myristic Acid, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Palmitic Acid, Lauric Acid, PEG-32, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Sorbitan Olivate, Limonene, Arachidic Acid, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Disodium EDTA, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Polyquaternium-7, Oleic Acid, Centella Asiatica Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Sodium Benzoate, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Linalool, C12-13 Pareth-9, Piroctone Olamine
Myristic Acid
Cleansing
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Dipropylene Glycol
HumectantStearic Acid
Cleansing
Potassium Hydroxide
BufferingGlycol Distearate
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Cleansing
PEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
Cleansing
Hydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emulsifying
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
Antioxidant
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Masking
Nepeta Cataria Extract
TonicAvena Sativa Kernel Extract
Abrasive
Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningStellaria Media Extract
Skin ConditioningBaptisia Tinctoria Root Extract
Skin ConditioningArctium Lappa Root Extract
Skin Conditioning
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
Cleansing
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialEchinacea Angustifolia Extract
MoisturisingSalix Alba Bark Extract
Astringent
Dextrin
AbsorbentTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Trisodium EDTA
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Masking
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Perfuming
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Masking
Parfum
Masking
Citral
Perfuming
Citronellol
Perfuming
Limonene
Perfuming
Geraniol
Perfuming
Linalool
Perfuming
Myristic Acid, Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Glycol Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Nepeta Cataria Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract, Stellaria Media Extract, Baptisia Tinctoria Root Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Echinacea Angustifolia Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Dextrin, Tocopheryl Acetate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Trisodium EDTA, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Parfum, Citral, Citronellol, Limonene, Geraniol, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil is the oil from the bergamot orange and is primarily used as a fragrance. It has a "fresh" and "bright orange" scent.
The main aroma compounds found in this ingredient are limonene (~27-52%), linalool (~2-22%), and linalyl acetate (~27-40%). These are known EU fragrance allergens.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
When used topically, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil is a photosensitizer due to the furanocoumarin content. Furanocoumarins absorb UV-A and cause phytophotodermatitis; this can look like redness, blistering, and lasting brown pigmentation on sun-exposed skin.
Due to this, this ingredient is capped at 0.4% in leave-on products applied to sun exposed skin.
Many modern formulas used a "furanocoumarin-free" version that sidesteps the phototoxicity issue, but still contains the fragrance allergens.
Learn more about Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit OilGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolThis ingredient is also known as tea tree oil. It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.
Tea tree oil is a complex lipophilic (fat-loving) oil that contains around 100 compounds with terpinen-4-ol being the most abundant (~40%).
Terpinen-4-ol is responsible for tea tree oil's broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity and makes it a well-researched option for acne.
Clinical studies support 5% tea tree oil as an effective topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. A study with 124 patients compared 5% tea tree oil gel to 5% benzoyl peroxide and both reduced acne (though tea tree oil worked more slowly).
Besides acne, it is also seen in anti-dandruff shampoos and scalp treatments for it's antimicrobial and anti-seborrheic properties.
Safety-wise, the allergic potential of low concentrations on healthy skin is considered low. However, oxidized (old or improperly stored) tea tree oil is a stronger sensitizer.
Irritation can also occur if using the undiluted oil on skin; it's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted cosmetic formula. This is because regulations require tea tree oil in cosmetics to be stabilized to prevent degradation.
This ingredient has been deemed safe up to 2% in shampoo, 1% in cleansers, and 0.1% in face cream by the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS).
There is some lab evidence that tea tree oil is antifungal against Malassezia, but it is a supportive option at best and not a replacement for proven antifungal treatments.
Learn more about Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf OilMyristic Acid, aka tetradecanoic acid, is a naturally occurring fatty acid found in coconut oil and palm oil.
In skincare, it is an:
Research indicates that this ingredient posts a low risk of irritation and sensitization.
Since myristic acid is a C14 fatty acid, it falls within the range that Malassezia can metabolize, and therefore not fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Myristic AcidPeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Potassium hydroxide is commonly known as caustic potash. It is used to fix the pH of a product or as a cleaning agent in soap. In cleansers, it is used for the saponification of oils.
Sapnification is the process of creating fatty acid metal salts from triglycerides and a strong base. During this process, Potassium Hydroxide is used up and is not present in the final product.
Using high concentrations of Potassium Hydroxide have shown to irritate the skin.
Learn more about Potassium HydroxideRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil is an essential oil also known as rosemary essential oil. In skincare, it is a skin conditioning agent and also acts as a natural fragrance that gives products a fresh/herby smell.
The oil is a mix of over 100 volatile compounds with 1,8-cineole, α-pinene, camphor, and verbenone usually leading the pack.
Lab studies credit this oil with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial activity. Some research even show rosemary compounds calming acne-related inflammation.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has concluded rosemary-derived ingredients to be safe when formulated to be nonsensitizing.
Since this is a fragrant essential oil, the main concern is for fragrance-sensitive folks.
Learn more about Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf OilSodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate is a gentle, coconut-derived cleansing surfactant. It's most commonly found in "sulfate-free" cleansers.
As a taurate, it belongs to a class of anionic surfactants prized for being efficient at cleansing without harshness, good performance in hard water, stability across a wide pH range, and easily biodegradable.
It is able to lift away oil and grime and make a nice lather without stripping your skin, so it's a good pick for sensitive skin.
Safety-wise, it has a good record. The CIR Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics and concentrations go up to 11% in leave-on products or 13% in rinse-off products.
Despite being derived from coconut oil, this ingredient is fungal acne safe. It's a water-soluble surfactant with no fatty oils or esters left intact on skin for the Malassezia yeast to feed.
Learn more about Sodium Methyl Cocoyl TaurateStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
