What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPEG-8
HumectantMyristic Acid
CleansingGlycerin
HumectantStearic Acid
CleansingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
CleansingPalmitic Acid
EmollientLauric Acid
CleansingPEG-32
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingLimonene
PerfumingArachidic Acid
CleansingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
ChelatingMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPolyquaternium-7
Oleic Acid
EmollientCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingMelia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Paradisi Peel Oil
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingSalvia Officinalis Leaf Extract
CleansingCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingSodium Benzoate
MaskingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
MaskingLinalool
PerfumingC12-13 Pareth-9
EmulsifyingPiroctone Olamine
PreservativeWater, PEG-8, Myristic Acid, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Palmitic Acid, Lauric Acid, PEG-32, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Sorbitan Olivate, Limonene, Arachidic Acid, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Disodium EDTA, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Polyquaternium-7, Oleic Acid, Centella Asiatica Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Sodium Benzoate, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Linalool, C12-13 Pareth-9, Piroctone Olamine
Myristic Acid
CleansingWater
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantStearic Acid
CleansingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingGlycol Distearate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCocamidopropyl Betaine
CleansingPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantSodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
CleansingHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingNepeta Cataria Extract
TonicAvena Sativa Kernel Extract
AbrasiveRubus Idaeus Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningStellaria Media Extract
Skin ConditioningBaptisia Tinctoria Root Extract
Skin ConditioningArctium Lappa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningLavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
CleansingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialEchinacea Angustifolia Extract
MoisturisingSalix Alba Bark Extract
AstringentDextrin
AbsorbentTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningTrisodium EDTA
ChelatingCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingEucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
PerfumingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
MaskingParfum
MaskingCitral
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingMyristic Acid, Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Glycol Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Nepeta Cataria Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Rubus Idaeus Leaf Extract, Stellaria Media Extract, Baptisia Tinctoria Root Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Echinacea Angustifolia Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Dextrin, Tocopheryl Acetate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Trisodium EDTA, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Parfum, Citral, Citronellol, Limonene, Geraniol, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil is the oil from the bergamot orange and is primarily used as a fragrance. It has a "fresh" and "bright orange" scent.
The main aroma compounds found in this ingredient are limonene (~27-52%), linalool (~2-22%), and linalyl acetate (~27-40%). These are known EU fragrance allergens.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
When used topically, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil is a photosensitizer due to the furanocoumarin content. Furanocoumarins absorb UV-A and cause phytophotodermatitis; this can look like redness, blistering, and lasting brown pigmentation on sun-exposed skin.
Due to this, this ingredient is capped at 0.4% in leave-on products applied to sun exposed skin.
Many modern formulas used a "furanocoumarin-free" version that sidesteps the phototoxicity issue, but still contains the fragrance allergens.
Learn more about Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit OilGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateLimonene is the compound that gives citrus peel its smell.
In skincare, it shows up as a standalone fragrance ingredient or as a natural compound of citrus and other essential oils.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in very small amounts; anything above 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off has to be named on the label in the EU. The citrus oils that carry it sit around 0.5-1% in a finished formula.
Fresh limonene is a weak allergen; the real issue is that it slowly reacts with air and then breaks down from oxidation to create hydroperoxides (which are strong sensitizers). This is why suppliers are required to keep the peroxide value below 20 mmol.
Positive reactions in people being investigated for eczema vary:
It's worth skipping if you have a known fragrance allergy or a compromised barrier, but the risk is low for most people.
Older or long-opened products are also more likely to bother you than fresh ones due to oxidation.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a small, naturally occurring scent molecule found in plants like lavender, coriander, bergamot, and more.
It is one of the two most-used fragrance ingredients in cosmetics and added purely for smell. Since it's not used for a skin benefit, there's no "effective dose". Concentration depends on the fragrance load of the product.
The EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
Fresh linalool is a weak sensitizer but air exposure turns some of it into hydroperoxides, which are strong sensitizers. Those oxidation products are the actual allergy concern.
Patch-test clinics see positive reactions to linalool hydroperoxides in about 4% to 12% of dermatitis patients depending on country and test concentration.
Resassuringly, one analytical study found hydroperoxide levels in real fragranced products to be orders of magnitude below what induced sensitization in animal studies with no evidence of oxidation building up during normal storage.
The practical takeaway is that linalool is fine for most people but worth avoiding if you have a confirmed fragrance contact allergy or a badly compromised barrier.
Products stored a long time after opening are also the high-risk scenario since that is when oxidation happens.
The scent of linalool is described as floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolThis ingredient is also known as tea tree oil. It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.
Tea tree oil is a complex lipophilic (fat-loving) oil that contains around 100 compounds with terpinen-4-ol being the most abundant (~40%).
Terpinen-4-ol is responsible for tea tree oil's broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity and makes it a well-researched option for acne.
Clinical studies support 5% tea tree oil as an effective topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. A study with 124 patients compared 5% tea tree oil gel to 5% benzoyl peroxide and both reduced acne (though tea tree oil worked more slowly).
Besides acne, it is also seen in anti-dandruff shampoos and scalp treatments for it's antimicrobial and anti-seborrheic properties.
Safety-wise, the allergic potential of low concentrations on healthy skin is considered low. However, oxidized (old or improperly stored) tea tree oil is a stronger sensitizer.
Irritation can also occur if using the undiluted oil on skin; it's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted cosmetic formula. This is because regulations require tea tree oil in cosmetics to be stabilized to prevent degradation.
This ingredient has been deemed safe up to 2% in shampoo, 1% in cleansers, and 0.1% in face cream by the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS).
There is some lab evidence that tea tree oil is antifungal against Malassezia, but it is a supportive option at best and not a replacement for proven antifungal treatments.
Learn more about Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf OilMyristic Acid, aka tetradecanoic acid, is a naturally occurring fatty acid found in coconut oil, milk fat, and palm oil.
In skincare, it is an:
Research indicates that this ingredient posts a low risk of irritation and sensitization.
Industry survey data collected for this ingredient puts real-world usage concentrations anywhere from 0.00002% to 20% (most of the high end sits in rinse-off products).
Myristic Acid is not a recognized contact allergen and there are no published case reports of allergic contact dermatitis to it. Human testing found it to be non-irritating at 100% and at 40-50% in mineral oil. There are complaints about high-Myristic-acid cleansers leaving a tight feeling behind, but that has more to do with soap chemistry and pH than an allergy.
This ingredient does have a comedogenic rating of 3, but this doesn't mean a formula with this ingredient will clog pores.
Human testing has proved that any finished product with this ingredient won't automatically make you break out; it really comes down to concentration, formula, and your skin. Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin.
Since myristic acid is a C14 fatty acid, it falls within the range that Malassezia can metabolize (C11-24), and therefore may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Myristic AcidPeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Potassium Hydroxide (also known as potash) is a strong alkaline ingredient that does one job: it nudges a product's pH up so the whole formula lands in a skin-friendly range.
It's also the base that turns oils into liquid soap during the soap making process.
An expert safety panel reviewed it and found it safe when formulations are made to be non-irritating.
As a pH adjuster, it's typically used well under 1% though regulatory caps go much higher: 5% in nail cuticle removers and 2-4.5% in hair straighteners.
Though there is some concern for irritation from raw or high pH material, a well-balanced formula will be a non-issue for the vast majority of people.
Learn more about Potassium HydroxideRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil is an essential oil also known as rosemary essential oil. In skincare, it is a skin conditioning agent and also acts as a natural fragrance that gives products a fresh/herby smell.
The oil is a mix of over 100 volatile compounds with 1,8-cineole, α-pinene, camphor, and verbenone usually leading the pack.
Lab studies credit this oil with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial activity. Some research even show rosemary compounds calming acne-related inflammation.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has concluded rosemary-derived ingredients to be safe when formulated to be nonsensitizing.
Since this is a fragrant essential oil, the main concern is for fragrance-sensitive folks.
Learn more about Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf OilSodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate is a gentle, coconut-derived cleansing surfactant. It's most commonly found in "sulfate-free" cleansers.
As a taurate, it belongs to a class of anionic surfactants prized for being efficient at cleansing without harshness, good performance in hard water, stability across a wide pH range, and easily biodegradable.
It is able to lift away oil and grime and make a nice lather without stripping your skin, so it's a good pick for sensitive skin.
Safety-wise, it has a good record. The CIR Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics and concentrations go up to 11% in leave-on products or 13% in rinse-off products.
Despite being derived from coconut oil, this ingredient is fungal acne safe. It's a water-soluble surfactant with no fatty oils or esters left intact on skin for the Malassezia yeast to feed.
Learn more about Sodium Methyl Cocoyl TaurateStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
This ingredient does have a comedogenic rating of 2-3, but this doesn't mean a formula with this ingredient will clog pores.
Human testing has proved that any finished product with this ingredient won't automatically make you break out; it really comes down to concentration, formula, and your skin.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water