ILLIYOON Ultra Repair Intensive Care Cream Versus Embryolisse Cicalisse - Restorative & Protective Skin Cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientPanthenol
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Polyacrylate-13
Parfum
MaskingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingPolyisobutene
Hydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingPanax Ginseng Root Water
MaskingPalmitic Acid
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientBupleurum Falcatum Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAngelica Acutiloba Root Extract
Skin ConditioningOphiopogon Japonicus Root Extract
Skin ConditioningMadecassoside
AntioxidantMyristic Acid
Cleansing7-Dehydrocholesterol
Emulsion StabilisingGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningLauric Acid
CleansingTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Dimethicone, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Panthenol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Polyacrylate-13, Parfum, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyisobutene, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Stearic Acid, Panax Ginseng Root Water, Palmitic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Bupleurum Falcatum Root Extract, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Madecassoside, Myristic Acid, 7-Dehydrocholesterol, Gluconolactone, Lauric Acid, Tocopherol
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantAcetamidocaproic Acid
AntioxidantCetyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientAluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
AbsorbentPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
CleansingGossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningPEG-75 Stearate
SurfactantHydrogenated Sweet Almond Oil
Skin ConditioningPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHydrogenated Cottonseed Oil
EmollientCeteth-20
CleansingSteareth-20
CleansingHydrogenated Apricot Kernel Oil
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Tocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingTropolone
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantSodium Benzoate
MaskingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Acetamidocaproic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, PEG-75 Stearate, Hydrogenated Sweet Almond Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrogenated Cottonseed Oil, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Hydrogenated Apricot Kernel Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Citric Acid, Tropolone, Tocopherol, Sodium Benzoate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Potassium Sorbate
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water