What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Urea
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantStearyl Alcohol
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingSelaginella Lepidophylla Extract
EmollientSteareth-21
CleansingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientJojoba Esters
EmollientJojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters
Skin ConditioningSqualene
EmollientPhytosteryl Macadamiate
Skin ConditioningPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantRetinol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSodium Ascorbate
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingCitrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningLens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Lactate
BufferingSodium PCA
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientBehentrimonium Methosulfate
SurfactantStearamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate
Butylene Glycol
HumectantPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGuar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Citric Acid
BufferingC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialTribehenin
EmollientCeramide Ng
Skin ConditioningPEG-10 Phytosterol
EmulsifyingCaramel
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Stearyl Alcohol, Niacinamide, Selaginella Lepidophylla Extract, Steareth-21, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Jojoba Esters, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Squalene, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Phytosterols, Tocopherol, Retinol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Ascorbate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Polysorbate 60, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Sodium Lactate, Sodium PCA, Propylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Stearamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Butylene Glycol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Ethylhexylglycerin, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Panthenol, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Tribehenin, Ceramide Ng, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Caramel
Water
Skin ConditioningCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSqualane
EmollientDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningRice Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeTocopherol
AntioxidantLactic Acid
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingWater, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Propanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Squalane, Dicaprylyl Ether, Glycine Soja Oil, Cetearyl Glucoside, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Retinol, Rice Ferment Filtrate, Ceramide NP, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinRetinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).
It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.
That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.
Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.
Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.
Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.
Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.
The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.
Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.
In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:
That last two are worth a closer look.
A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.
Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.
So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).
It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.
The research backs this up as well.
A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.
Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).
Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.
One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.
It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.
Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.
This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.
Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.
The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.
Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.
Learn more about RetinolTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water