What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantCitrus Junos Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientAllantoin
Skin ConditioningGlycereth-26
HumectantAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Phenylethyl Resorcinol
Antioxidant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPolyacrylate-13
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCeramide Ns
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningTetrapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningNonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPolyisobutene
Pentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingAroma
Rosa Hybrid Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Centella Asiatica Extract, Panthenol, Betaine, Isopropyl Palmitate, Allantoin, Glycereth-26, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Polyacrylate-13, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide AP, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Propylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 20, Ceramide NP, Tetrapeptide-1, Nonapeptide-1, Polyisobutene, Pentylene Glycol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Aroma, Rosa Hybrid Flower Extract
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Water
AntioxidantGlycerin
HumectantTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPotassium Azeloyl Diglycinate
Skin ConditioningScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentPunica Granatum Seed Cell Culture Lysate
Skin ConditioningPolymethylsilsesquioxane
Niacinamide
SmoothingDiglucosyl Gallic Acid
Alpha-Arbutin
AntioxidantEllagic Acid
Skin ConditioningTranexamic Acid
AstringentHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientAcetyl Glycyl Beta-Alanine
Skin ConditioningTetrapeptide-30
Skin ConditioningOligopeptide-68
BleachingHydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid
Skin ConditioningGlutathione
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingRubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
AstringentSilybum Marianum Extract
Skin ConditioningBrassica Rapa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningMorus Alba Root Extract
BleachingAcetyl Glucosamine
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantMaltodextrin
AbsorbentGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCeramide AP
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Squalane
EmollientHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientSodium Oleate
CleansingFerulic Acid
Antimicrobial4-Butylresorcinol
AntioxidantHydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingWater, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Water, Glycerin, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Punica Granatum Seed Cell Culture Lysate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Niacinamide, Diglucosyl Gallic Acid, Alpha-Arbutin, Ellagic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Acetyl Glycyl Beta-Alanine, Tetrapeptide-30, Oligopeptide-68, Hydroxyphenoxy Propionic Acid, Glutathione, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Silybum Marianum Extract, Brassica Rapa Root Extract, Morus Alba Root Extract, Acetyl Glucosamine, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Maltodextrin, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Disodium EDTA, Squalane, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Sodium Oleate, Ferulic Acid, 4-Butylresorcinol, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Sodium Benzoate
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidAllantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCeramide AP is is a skin-identical lipid that mimics what your skin already makes naturally. Ceramides help maintain epidermal integrity and barrier function.
You'll often see this ingredient paired with other ceramides (like ceramide NP), cholesterol, or fatty acids because this combination best mimics the natural lipid mix your skin already has.
The skin's ability to produce ceramides gets disrupted in skin conditions like eczema. This in turn weakens the skin barrier and applying ceramides topically has been shown to replenish what's been lost to restore barrier function.
Most of the studies with Ceramide AP test it as part of a multi-ceramide complex; studies reinforce ceramide AP's role in rebalancing ceramides in skin and improving skin hydration.
Learn more about Ceramide APGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum