What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingTapioca Starch
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientLauryl Laurate
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientZea Mays Starch
AbsorbentParfum
MaskingVolcanic Ash
AbrasiveNiacinamide
SmoothingCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantLimonene
PerfumingCalendula Officinalis Flower Oil
MaskingCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientSqualane
EmollientMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantBisabolol
AntioxidantCitrus Limon Peel Oil
MaskingJuniperus Virginiana Oil
MaskingLinalool
PerfumingPogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil
MaskingCymbopogon Flexuosus Oil
MaskingPinene
MaskingCitral
PerfumingFarnesol
PerfumingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingLinalyl Acetate
MaskingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingBeta-Caryophyllene
MaskingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tapioca Starch, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Lauryl Laurate, Silica, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Zea Mays Starch, Parfum, Volcanic Ash, Niacinamide, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Limonene, Calendula Officinalis Flower Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Squalane, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Bisabolol, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Linalool, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Cymbopogon Flexuosus Oil, Pinene, Citral, Farnesol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Linalyl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Beta-Caryophyllene
Isopropyl Myristate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningCopernicia Cerifera Wax
Squalane
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningC10-18 Triglycerides
EmollientTapioca Starch
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientTribehenin
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientSilica
AbrasiveCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningLupinus Albus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningAcmella Oleracea Extract
Skin ProtectingTocopherol
AntioxidantIsopropyl Myristate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Behenyl Alcohol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C10-18 Triglycerides, Tapioca Starch, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Tribehenin, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Silica, Ceramide NP, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Tocopherol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredientās final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax is created from the common sunflower.
Sunflower seed wax is made up of long chain non-glyceride esters, a small amount of fatty alcohols, and fatty acids.
This ingredient is often used to enhance the texture of products. The fatty acid properties also help hydrate the skin.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed WaxSilica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Learn more about SilicaSqualane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, itās technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term āoil-freeā isnāt regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneTapioca starch is a thickening agent and is made from the cassava root, also known as yucca.
According to a manufacturer, it is an excellent talc replacement.
It is gluten-free.
Learn more about Tapioca StarchTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about Tocopherol