What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningC12-14 Alketh-12
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Germ Extract
EmollientCynanchum Atratum Extract
Skin ConditioningAlthaea Rosea Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantMenthyl Lactate
MaskingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingTromethamine
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Phytate
Citric Acid
BufferingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSodium Dna
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningSodium Citrate
BufferingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicTartaric Acid
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantAscorbic Acid Polypeptide
AntioxidantAcetyl Octapeptide-3
HumectantAcetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-3
Skin ProtectingAcetyl Tetrapeptide-5
HumectantAcetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningCarnosine
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningNonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingWater, C12-14 Alketh-12, Butylene Glycol, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Glycine Soja Germ Extract, Cynanchum Atratum Extract, Althaea Rosea Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Silica, Saccharide Isomerate, Glycerin, Menthyl Lactate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Phytate, Citric Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Dna, Ceramide NP, Sodium Citrate, Panthenol, Biotin, Tartaric Acid, Tocopherol, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Carnosine, Copper Tripeptide-1, Nonapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum
Water
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantC12-13 Alketh-9
EmulsifyingCaffeine
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantMenthol
MaskingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Betaine
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningAminomethyl Propanol
BufferingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Ethyl Menthane Carboxamide
Tonic1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPolygonum Multiflorum Root Extract
Skin ConditioningYeast Beta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningGalactomyces Ferment Filtrate
HumectantLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningSodium Dna
Skin ConditioningBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicHydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Skin ConditioningSchizophyllan
HumectantFructooligosaccharides
HumectantScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentAkebia Quinata Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
CleansingCamellia Japonica Flower Extract
EmollientNephrite Powder
AbrasivePolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantAcetyl Tetrapeptide-5
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCarnosine
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Alcohol Denat., Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, C12-13 Alketh-9, Caffeine, Dipropylene Glycol, Menthol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Betaine, Allantoin, Aminomethyl Propanol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium EDTA, Ethyl Menthane Carboxamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Panthenol, Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract, Yeast Beta-Glucan, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Sodium Dna, Biotin, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Schizophyllan, Fructooligosaccharides, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Akebia Quinata Extract, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Nephrite Powder, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Propanediol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Adenosine, Carnosine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about Acetyl Hexapeptide-8Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 is a peptide that goes by another name, eyeseryl, due to claims that it can help reduce eye puffiness.
The manufacturer claims this ingredient reduces eye puffiness by:
An in-vivo study from the manufacturer found 95% of volunteers saw eye bag improvement by the end of the study.
Eye puffiness is caused by two major factors: fluid retention and fat.
Those with fluid retention may see improvement from using this ingredient. However, those with eye fat will need surgical intervention in order to get rid of puffiness.
Learn more about Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5Biotin is a B vitamin that is naturally produced by our bodies. It is also called Vitamin H.
Our bodies use biotin in the metabolism process. It also helps our bodies use enzymes and move nutrients around. A biotin deficiency can lead to brittle hair and nails.
More research is needed on applying biotin topically. However, taking biotin orally has been shown to help nourish the skin, hair, and nails. They play a role in forming skin-hydrating fatty acids.
Biotin is water-soluble. It can be found in foods such as fish, eggs, dairy, nuts, and meat. Vitamin H stands for "haar" and "haut". These are the German words for hair and skin.
Learn more about BiotinButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCarnosine is a dipeptide made from two amino acids.
This ingredient helps:
Glycation is the process of sugars binding to and damaging proteins. Too much sugar in our skin can lead to damaged collagen, contributing to factors of aging.
Carnosine is water-soluble and is not able to travel deeper layers of skin. This leads to some doubt about whether it can boost collagen in skin, since collagen is located in the deeper layers of skin.
Fun fact: Carnosine can be naturally found in our muscles and brain.
Learn more about CarnosineEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.
This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.
It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.
The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.
This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.
Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.
On the fungal acne front:
Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolSodium DNA is an emerging anti-aging ingredient.
It is created by taking deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) and purifying it with sodium hydroxide.
The DNA is extracted from several different animal sources, including: calf thymus, the gonadic tissue of a male sturgeon, or herring / salmon sperm.
You have probably seen this ingredient in anti-aging skincare. But what is it?
DNA is composed of nucleotides, or chemical building blocks. Nucleotides include adenine (A), thymine (T), guanine (G), and cytosine (C). Talk about a flashback to biology! Nucleosides are formed from these nucleotides.
The science behind Sodium DNA is based on an ingredient called Polydeoxyribonucleotide or PDRN.
PDRN are DNA fragments mainly extracted from the sperm cells of trout or salmon. Meaning, PDRN can be derived from Sodium DNA.
PDRN consists of chains of nucleotides and nucleosides mentioned above. They can range anywhere from 80 - 2000 pairs.
Studies show PDRN has the following properties:
Most of the research on PDRN has been done using injectable forms. That’s important, because PDRN is a large molecule and doesn’t absorb well through the skin. So if you’re applying it topically, the effects are likely to be much milder.
Still, topical Sodium DNA is emerging as a trendy anti-aging ingredient. It’s generally well-tolerated and offers good biocompatibility with human skin, making it a low-risk addition to most routines.
Further studies are needed to truly confirm this ingredients anti-aging ability (Remember, retinol has decades of research!).
Sodium DNA may be sourced from fish, animal tissue, or plants. Since this isn’t always disclosed, we recommend asking the brand directly if the ingredient’s origin is important to you.
Learn more about Sodium DnaWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water