What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingEthylhexyl Stearate
EmollientCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientBetaine
HumectantEthyl Hexanediol
SolventSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingPolyacrylate-13
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPolyisobutene
Potassium Hydroxide
BufferingLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingWater
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingMyristic Acid
CleansingHippophae Rhamnoides Extract
MaskingThymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf Extract
MaskingBuddleja Davidii Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingHamamelis Virginiana Water
AstringentMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Betaine, Ethyl Hexanediol, Sodium Polyacrylate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Polyacrylate-13, Xanthan Gum, Panthenol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyisobutene, Potassium Hydroxide, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Water, Polysorbate 20, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Sorbitan Isostearate, Myristic Acid, Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Flower/Leaf Extract, Buddleja Davidii Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Water
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningMicrocrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Cellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingMadecassoside
AntioxidantBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningActinidia Arguta Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Behenyl Alcohol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Cellulose Gum, Madecassoside, Beta-Glucan, Actinidia Arguta Fruit Extract, Tocopherol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water