What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientHydrogenated Polydecene
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantPropanediol
SolventAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningTromethamine
BufferingBenzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol
UV AbsorberGlyceryl Polymethacrylate
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCholesterol
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Polyvinyl Alcohol
Methylpropanediol
SolventTocopherol
AntioxidantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Leaf Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPhenylpropanol
MaskingMadecassoside
AntioxidantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantBakuchiol
AntimicrobialEchinacea Purpurea Extract
MoisturisingSodium DNA
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-5
HumectantAcetyl Hexapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Propanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Retinol, Tromethamine, Benzotriazolyl Dodecyl P-Cresol, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Cholesterol, Panthenol, Disodium EDTA, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Methylpropanediol, Tocopherol, Ceramide NP, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenylpropanol, Madecassoside, Hyaluronic Acid, Bakuchiol, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Sodium DNA, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingCeratonia Siliqua Gum
EmollientChondrus Crispus Powder
AbrasiveBetaine
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentCollagen Extract
Skin ConditioningPotassium Chloride
Sodium Phytate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSucrose
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningPantolactone
HumectantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantBakuchiol
AntimicrobialRetinal
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientDextrin
AbsorbentGardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientAnemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Betaine, Panthenol, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Cellulose Gum, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Collagen Extract, Potassium Chloride, Sodium Phytate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sucrose, Adenosine, Allantoin, Pantolactone, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Bakuchiol, Retinal, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dextrin, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Tocopherol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.
You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:
1) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV)
2) activate the same genes retinoids do
Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).
The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.
Systematic reviews also back this up:
Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.
The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.
This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.
Learn more about BakuchiolBetaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Learn more about BetaineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenonePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water