What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPotassium Cocoyl Glycinate
Glycerin
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Lauroamphoacetate
CleansingTrisodium Hedta
PEG-150 Distearate
EmulsifyingStearic Acid
CleansingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingSodium Chloride
MaskingNiacinamide
SmoothingHydroxyethyl Urea
HumectantHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingDisodium EDTA
BHT
AntioxidantSodium Carbonate
BufferingUrea
BufferingAmmonium Lactate
BufferingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPrunus Serrulata Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Lauroyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingSodium Lauroyl Glutamate
Pentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Laurate
CleansingPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingGlutamic Acid
HumectantLauric Acid
CleansingCholesterol
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Citrate
BufferingSodium Bicarbonate
AbrasivePantolactone
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningIodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
PreservativeEthanolamine
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingWater, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Trisodium Hedta, PEG-150 Distearate, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Parfum, Sodium Chloride, Niacinamide, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Sodium Carbonate, Urea, Ammonium Lactate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Prunus Serrulata Flower Extract, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Pentylene Glycol, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Sodium Laurate, Phytosphingosine, Citric Acid, Glutamic Acid, Lauric Acid, Cholesterol, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Bicarbonate, Pantolactone, Panthenol, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Ethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
Water
Skin ConditioningPotassium Cocoyl Glycinate
Glycerin
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Lauroamphoacetate
CleansingCeramide Ng
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Urea
HumectantLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingPrunus Serrulata Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingAmmonium Lactate
BufferingBHT
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
PreservativeNiacinamide
SmoothingParfum
MaskingPEG-4
HumectantPEG-4 Dilaurate
EmulsifyingPEG-150 Distearate
EmulsifyingPEG-4 Laurate
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePotassium Carbonate
BufferingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingPPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30
EmulsifyingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Ceramide Ng, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Prunus Serrulata Flower Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Ammonium Lactate, BHT, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Niacinamide, Parfum, PEG-4, PEG-4 Dilaurate, PEG-150 Distearate, PEG-4 Laurate, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Carbonate, Potassium Hydroxide, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30, Limonene, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ammonium lactate is derived from lactic acid and is considered an AHA. It is often used to treat very dry, rough, or itchy skin.
At 12% strength, this ingredient has been shown to do more than just moisturize. Studies show it can increase skin thickness, boost natural hyaluronic acid in skin, and improve overall firmness/elasticity.
You'll likely see this ingredient in eczema treatments. Many OTC products contain this ingredient (up to 10%), but stronger versions (30%) are only available by prescription in many countries.
According to the Cosmetic Use Guidelines (CIR Expert Panel), this ingredient is safe to use at ≤10% with pH ≥3.5, provided sun protection is included. Like all AHAs, ammonium lactate makes your skin more sensitive to the sun (daily sun protection is a mustl). Without it, UV exposure can lead to damage and undo the benefits of treatment.
Be sure to listen to your medical provider when using prescription ammonium lactate.
Learn more about Ammonium LactateBHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinIodopropynyl Butylcarbamate (IPBC) is a preservative that is especially good at getting fungi and mold out of your cosmetics.
IPBC works by leveraging the antimicrobial properties of its iodine containing structure. Iodine has been used as a germicide since the late 1800s and IPBC is a more refined and stable derivative of it.
It is typically used at very low levels in cosmetics, with most formulations using 0.0125% or less (well below its approved maximum).
In the EU, IPBC concentration limits are set at 0.02% in rinse-off products and 0.01% in leave-on products.
Though IPBC is a relatively uncommon contact allergen, patch testing studies show positive reaction rates ranging from 0.3%-0.9% of patients tested. This is still quite low compared to preservatives like methylisothiazolinone which sits at around 4-5%.
Researchers note that existing iodine sensitives or rubber allergies may be the cause of this as IPBC shares a structure with both thiuram (used in rubber) and iodine.
Be sure to patch test if you are unsure and speak with a medical professional about using this ingredient.
Learn more about Iodopropynyl ButylcarbamateNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPeg-150 Distearate is an emulsifier and thickening agent. It is created from stearic acid.
As an emulsifier, peg-150 distearate helps other ingredients dissolve. This helps prevent ingredient separation.
This ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about PEG-150 DistearatePhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate is an amino acid-based surfactant and cleaning agent. This ingredient can be derived from animals or plants. It may also be synthetically created from fatty acids of the coconut and glycine.
Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate is a gentle surfactant. Surfactants help gather the dirt, oil, and other pollutants from your skin to be rinsed away. It is a mild cleanser and naturally produces foam.
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolThis ingredient comes from the flowers of the cherry blossom tree native to Japan, Korea, China, and Vietnam.
We don't have a description for Sodium Lauroamphoacetate yet.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water