What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Masking
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
Antioxidant
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Emulsifying
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Glycerin
Humectant
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin Conditioning
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Emollient
Persea Gratissima Oil
Skin Conditioning
Equisetum Arvense Extract
AstringentChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Masking
Aloe Barbadensis Extract
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Emollient
Cetearyl Glucoside
Emulsifying
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Stearic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glyceryl Stearate, Polysorbate 60, Glycerin, Allantoin, Panthenol, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Extract, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Tapioca Starch
Cetearyl Olivate
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Masking
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Alcohol Denat.
Antimicrobial
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
Preservative
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Bisabolol
Antioxidant
Maltodextrin
Absorbent
Hamamelis Virginiana Water
Astringent
Citric Acid
Buffering
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingFructooligosaccharides
Humectant
Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil
Masking
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Masking
Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningTotarol
Antioxidant
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Bleaching
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Masking
Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
AstringentWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Tapioca Starch, Cetearyl Olivate, Niacinamide, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Alcohol Denat., Sorbitan Olivate, Stearic Acid, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Maltodextrin, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Fructooligosaccharides, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Syringa Vulgaris Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Totarol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinCarthamus tinctorius seed oil comes from safflower, one of humanity's oldest crops.
Safflower seed oil contains a high percentage of linoleic acid and oleic acid. It also contains Vitamin E. These three components are effective moisturizers.
Vitamin E helps nourish your skin's lipid barrier. It is also a potent antioxidant. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, or unstable molecules that may damage your skin cells.
Due to its high fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be malassezia folliculitis safe.
Thoughout history, safflower has been used for dying fabrics and in food as a saffron substitute.
Learn more about Carthamus Tinctorius Seed OilChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract comes from the Chamomile flower.
Chamomile is rich in antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties. Several compounds found in chamomile help with soothing, such as bisbolol.
Antioxidant components in chamomile make it an effective ingredient to help slow the signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, or molecules that may damage your skin.
Essential oils from chamomile have been found to improve wound healing due to its antimicrobial properties.
Ancient Greeks and Egyptians used Chamomile to treat skin redness and dryness. Chamomile has also been used to help treat stomach issues.
Learn more about Chamomilla Recutita Flower ExtractEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Learn more about Polysorbate 60Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
